Good luck on your purchase!

 

I would agree with that, once you place a converter and stickier tires on the car, the stock pressed LCA's are flimsy and have contributed to wheel hop. If daily driven get a set of rubber/poly.

 

So all around it is best to get a 12bolt? Or not for bolt-on modding.

 

i wouldn't be worried about the 10 bolt behind a bolt on car but it has taken less to break one. it's a liability, but take into consideration a 12 bolt/9"/strange is going to run you 1500-2500 and it's easy to see why people run 10 bolts as long as they can.

if you are going to be running a fairly light car with an automatic and nitto or BFG DRs you are going to be pretty safe.

but keep in mind for every "it lasted and i run 10's" story there's 2 "first time at the track, broke my rear" stories.

 

3.73's and 4000 stall. dont puss out on a small one.
Lid
headers
LCAs
Subframe connectors

thats a very good start

 

Very dumb question, but:

What's an LCA?

 

sorry. rear lower control arm, tubular or boxed are 100% better than the stock stamped piece

 

Also duly noted, thanks.

I would also like to get an x-pipe exhaust. Any links for that?

 

Be a man and drop a sbf in it.




<3

 

I would not worry about it with bolt-ons. I ran my 10 bolt without any issues, but I would not tamper with the gears. That is typically when someone shits them out the back after a supposed clean install. The 3.23's still have a decent amount of meat on them, but the 3.73's look anemic in comparison. Just as stated the cost of a 12 bolt or 9in for that matter is beyond worth while for a bolt-on car.