1987 Honda XL250R Overhaul -- Pics Galore --- Minimalist's Garage
#141
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I Just went to peek at 'em. And either i'm using the wrong feeler gauges, or i'm just dumb. (for the record, my feeler gauges are straight, about 3.5" long).
THe angle that that gauge has to come in at is pretty extreme in order to get betwen the adjuster screw and the valve stem. It gets in there, but theres defeinitely a drag because of the angle of approach. Should I have a different set of gauges? or is what i'm experiencing commonplace?
THe angle that that gauge has to come in at is pretty extreme in order to get betwen the adjuster screw and the valve stem. It gets in there, but theres defeinitely a drag because of the angle of approach. Should I have a different set of gauges? or is what i'm experiencing commonplace?
#142
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For future reference and reassembly It's MUCH easier if you unbolt the cam gear from the cam before trying to get it all out of the chain. Same for reinstall. Put the cam in first, than bolt the gear to it, then add tension.
Thats how I've always done it on CRF rebuilds anyway.
Thats how I've always done it on CRF rebuilds anyway.
#143
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For future reference and reassembly It's MUCH easier if you unbolt the cam gear from the cam before trying to get it all out of the chain. Same for reinstall. Put the cam in first, than bolt the gear to it, then add tension.
Thats how I've always done it on CRF rebuilds anyway.
Thats how I've always done it on CRF rebuilds anyway.
![](http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp204/meams4043/Reassemble/CamInAligned3.jpg)
Last edited by quick26; 12-08-2010 at 10:15 AM.
#144
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For future reference and reassembly It's MUCH easier if you unbolt the cam gear from the cam before trying to get it all out of the chain. Same for reinstall. Put the cam in first, than bolt the gear to it, then add tension.
Thats how I've always done it on CRF rebuilds anyway.
Thats how I've always done it on CRF rebuilds anyway.
#145
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Put it in the classifides on www.advrider.com/forums
lots of traffic on there-- if you're really trying to get rid of it.
lots of traffic on there-- if you're really trying to get rid of it.
#146
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Just turned it over two full crank rotations -- no binding sticking or grinding. THere was one spot where I felt like I was having to use more force to turn it (opening valves maybe?) but I was probably just imaginging it. I tried adjusting the valves last night when my girl was over (needed her to hold the wrench) but things just weren't going as well as I needed them too.
I had a normal wrench (is there such thing as a 'normal wrench'? haha) instead of a box wrench, and I self-bent my feeler gauges and i seemed to have left a little too much space at the end. I'm going to give it a try again - but will likely go pick up a 10mm box wrench and a proper set of gauges.
I had a normal wrench (is there such thing as a 'normal wrench'? haha) instead of a box wrench, and I self-bent my feeler gauges and i seemed to have left a little too much space at the end. I'm going to give it a try again - but will likely go pick up a 10mm box wrench and a proper set of gauges.
#147
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box wrench is the one to use. open does not work well. did you have the spark plug in when turing it over?
#148
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Yeah. Which reminds me. I need the appropriate deep socket so I can pull the old one out. None of my shit fits. Ill pick that up today while i'm out.
I got a 12mm deep but its not big enough. IS there a standard size for spark plugs? I did a quick search through the clymer but didnt see anything pointing me in the right direction.
Maybe a 14mm? I'm guestimating -- the angle that the spark plug sits makes it nearly impossible to see correctly from any vantage point.
I got a 12mm deep but its not big enough. IS there a standard size for spark plugs? I did a quick search through the clymer but didnt see anything pointing me in the right direction.
Maybe a 14mm? I'm guestimating -- the angle that the spark plug sits makes it nearly impossible to see correctly from any vantage point.
Last edited by 4BangerCivic; 12-09-2010 at 05:49 AM.
#149
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the crf uni cam design is a lil different than the convetnonal set up. the correct way to do his would have been to leave the cam gear on the cam in the first place. they way they are set up, you pull 2 dowel pins and the cam bearing slide off then you take the chain off and the whole assembly comes out. you cant physically take the gear off that set up with the cam still in the motor. on a uni cam you have to remove the cam gear to get the cam out.
BIG ASS PIC
BIG ASS PIC
#150
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Yeah. Which reminds me. I need the appropriate deep socket so I can pull the old one out. None of my shit fits. Ill pick that up today while i'm out.
I got a 12mm deep but its not big enough. IS there a standard size for spark plugs? I did a quick search through the clymer but didnt see anything pointing me in the right direction.
Maybe a 14mm? I'm guestimating -- the angle that the spark plug sits makes it nearly impossible to see correctly from any vantage point.
I got a 12mm deep but its not big enough. IS there a standard size for spark plugs? I did a quick search through the clymer but didnt see anything pointing me in the right direction.
Maybe a 14mm? I'm guestimating -- the angle that the spark plug sits makes it nearly impossible to see correctly from any vantage point.
no problem.