chappe

So i got these pictures today before the seat came in..



I want to mount the headlight about 4 inches lower..



Surprisingly all the cables needed was rerouting, everything reaches the bars, even the brake line. I did have to raise the bike back up in the front about 2 inches because the bars would had looked retarded if i didnt.

I jerry rigged the seat on there, i dont really like how it looks and i will show pictures tomorrow.. I will probably go somewhere and have some brackets welded onto the frame of the bike and do it right...

Also, i Jerry rigged the stock tail light on there... So, pretty much all the bike needs done to hit the road is an oil change, replace the brake fluid, and hope the tires hold up until i can afford a new set. LOL.. OHH i will be chopping off the frame rails tomorrow..

Later down the road i will be needing a shorty fender so i dont have a permanent line of dirt going up all my shirts..

and of course
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_3623wt_939

~Josh

It's kinda sad how excited I am to see this finished, and some rolling pics.

chappe

So, it rolls... It doesnt have a tag, but i still took it to the gas station to pump fuel and air on the tires. . . It's a lof of fun and very comfortable, despise the fact that the rear bottoms out on every other bumb ... I only have one complaint.. and tha's the seat.. i ghetto rigged it on there and its a little unstable... But i will have brackets welded in there as soon as i sell the SV.




Sucks i couldnt keep the front dumped

skr00zloose

you can knock a few inches out of those forks internally, if you still want the front end lower. I kinda figured you were going to have to pull them back thru the trees with the apes. I have those same bars on my bike. It's pretty easy to lower damper rod forks like those. You can do it with nothing but hand tools.

good to see it's up and mobile.

PLEASE cut off all that crap behind the upper shock mounts! Get yourself some shorter shocks, and you won't be bottoming out as much. or...just strut it. If you strut it, and cut off all that nastyness behind the shock mounts and under the seat, you could have someone weld in a crossbar between the upper shock mounts, which could also double as seat spring mounts (you'd want springs under the seat if you strutted it, trust me).


why does your mailbox look like a coffin? that's just weird.

chappe

My mailbox IS a coffin!...

From the short i went on today, i dont really mind the bottoming out.. The streets here are quite smooth, so im not sweating it. . .

I cut one of the frame rails, but i kinda like how that one looks on there.. PLUS i can use it to lift the rear of the bike when i put it on the rear stand... It will probably be removed when i have the seat installed properly, but i'll enjoy it for now.. LOLz

I'd like to lower the forks internally, but i just dont htink i wanna do all that work again.. heehehe

Steve, do you know if they sell the metal bars (or struts) online?..

92EH3

looks good man

skr00zloose

1" x 1/4" steel, cut to length, drill 2 holes in each, bam, you're done. That's the easiest way to do it. there's better looking ways, but require a lil more time/energy.

chappe

thank you sir



I'm listening...

If i do it, i'd like them to be round

~Josh

can you weld?

skr00zloose

what he said^^^^

there is a way to do it without welding anything, I do the same to make linkages on my bikes (so I can adjust the length), but welded would be simpler, and stronger

get yourself a big fat piece of all-thread, a heavy gauge pipe that fits over the all thread, and some eyelets that will screw onto the all thread. cut the all-thread to the length you need, with the eyelets on either end. with the eyelets screwed on, measure the distance between the two (where the all-thread is exposed). Cut the pipe to that length, and put it over the all-thread between the eyelets. The pipe between the two eyelets makes it MUCH stronger (as long as it's all tight). Problem is gonna be finding eyelets (rod ends) that will take all-thread that big, but still have the right size hole for the mounting stud/bolt.

Would be much simpler to just cut steel rod to length, and weld a short piece 90 degrees to that rod on either end, and drill the right size hole.

you're talkin alot of load on the struts, so they need to be made out of something pretty substantial.

If you tell me the length you want them (from eye to eye, on center), and the size of the holes you need in either end, I might could make you a set, and ship them to you.