Treyzers15

Something else I have come across Is that when It runs for a while, more then 10 miles. It'll start up as normal after I shut It off. But It seems to be after short drives Is when It continues to struggle at start. Got battery tested as well came out fine, they can't test alternator since the battery Is In the trunk.

shonanspeed

Do you get a battery light?

Treyzers15

Not at all, got battery tested also both Advance and Auto Zone said It checks out fine. Seems my only hope now Is to take It to the dealer and get charged out the ass for a diagnostic run. Or take the alternator out to get It tested.

Fabrik8

I think you need some help from someone who is more experienced with electrical troubleshooting. If this means taking it to the dealer, that's up to you.

shonanspeed

Fabrik8 is right. You're on your own dude. I asked about the battery light because if your alternator is f'd your car will oftentimes throw that because it can't recharge the battery.

Dough_Boy.

Your battery light is probably on because the starter is bad and pulling a draw from the battery. It's probably the starter that is bad.

shonanspeed

This is also true. He doesn't have a battery light though. In my case, my alternator was issuing...again.

Treyzers15

So how can I tell which one It Is then? I refuse to pull the negative off my battery while my car Is running, that test just seems beyond stupid.

Dough_Boy.

When it doesn't want to start does it still crank or just click? If it just clicks take something and beat on the starter, if you turn it over and it spins and doesn't click after that it's your starter.

Treyzers15

It does both actually. Some times It wants to just click. After trying 3-6 times It'll finally crank for about 4 secounds then start up. I ran a diagnostic on It and I got code P0406 which is for a EGR valve. I'm relally not so sure what that would have to do with any of this truth be told. Especially gauges dead for 5 secounds.