low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
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low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
ok so i just finished reassembling my motor and i drove it to school today and i noticed that when the car is warm it idles and drives fine but once it reaches operating temps my idle starts to drop till the car stalls at red lights. also when im crusing unless im in 5th cruising at 30-40 i have to give the car more gas than i would like to or it feels like no gas at all is getting to the motor. recently done were a cometic head gasket with arp head studs with water pump and timing belt. injectors are the ones from my single cam. dizzy timing is advanced and there is a vaccume leak that i created at the back of the mani or the car will idle at about 500rpm. please help while i have light. only code i have is a 17 because i have an ef with a dc gsr cluster and have not found a vss locally. b20z with jdm b16 cable tranny
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Re: low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
coolant temp switch cuts the fan on correct? if so those wires are connected because the fan just wouldnt cut on with it using the temp sensor by itsefl and this was 2 different sensors
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Re: low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
There are usually three different temperature sensors. One is an analog sensor used by the ECU for temperature-based fuel compensation, one is an analog sensor used by the coolant temp gauge in the gauge cluster, and one is a thermostatic temp switch that operates the fan. Many newer cars actually use the ECU to control the fan, making only one of the two analog sensors necessary.
If you have a whole bunch of rigged wiring that bypasses all of the normal stuff, we can't help you. We don't know how bad your wiring is, or how poorly modified.
If you have a whole bunch of rigged wiring that bypasses all of the normal stuff, we can't help you. We don't know how bad your wiring is, or how poorly modified.
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Re: low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
its pretty bad honestly. all the wiring i did for my cluster is clean. i cleaned the iac tonight and it seemed ok for a little while but i gave it about twenty more min while i gave my daughter a bath and it went back to the low idle till i reved it to about 6500 then it idled around around 900-1000. something just isnt right and i cant fogure it out. if its the coolant temp at the ecu i can track down the pin. but would that explain the hesitation i get when cruising? the injectors are old but the nets are clean and the fuel filter has less than 200 miles on it. would a dirty fuel pump sock cause this? maybe bad main relay
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Re: low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
also my car took a little longer than normal to crank up by like three seconds. what are some symptoms of a bad o2 sensor and a bad tps that yall have had. from what i searched it seems like the o2 since i dont have the problems till im warm.
#8
Re: low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
When my oil pump took was taking a shit, my car use to cut off when coasting to a stop. Would also idle like shit unless gas was given.
Just a worst case scenario im letting you know of, happened to me. Sounds very similiar to how my car acted for a few weeks, before it crapped out on me.
Just a worst case scenario im letting you know of, happened to me. Sounds very similiar to how my car acted for a few weeks, before it crapped out on me.
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Re: low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
When my oil pump took was taking a shit, my car use to cut off when coasting to a stop. Would also idle like shit unless gas was given.
Just a worst case scenario im letting you know of, happened to me. Sounds very similiar to how my car acted for a few weeks, before it crapped out on me.
Just a worst case scenario im letting you know of, happened to me. Sounds very similiar to how my car acted for a few weeks, before it crapped out on me.
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Re: low idle+ stalling+ funny driving b20
So as im fixing the ignition timing back to oem i look down and notice the ground wire to my converted 4 wire o2 has broken off of the ring terminal that it was in. I replaced it and it seems as if the problem is solved.