1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
#21
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Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
Well, I just checked the voltage at the pump and I'm getting over 9V. Bad pump, I guess...?
Where can I get a good fuel pump for this thing? Hah ha...
Where can I get a good fuel pump for this thing? Hah ha...
#22
Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
Autohausaz.com has bosch aftermarket ones on sale ofr $157.96 right now. In my experience a lot of parts that are made by Bosch for MB have better quality control when bought from MB, but IIRC an MB branded one is like 400 bucks, so it's probably worth the risk.
Weird that it's 9V though, should be higher. Battery is running out of steam I guess.
#24
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Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
check bap geon. i got my last pump for my 190e there for $100. have you to tried to "convince" the old pump into working again? charge the battery up a little and have someone turn ignition on and off to cycle the pump while you "tap" on the side of the pump. it has worked a few times for me to get the pump running again. these pumps tend to seize up if they arent used for a long time. why was the car parked for so long anyway?
#25
Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
For the battery, I like the factory batteries because I like the old-school white battery that you top off with distilled water, and with the MBCA parts discount they're no more expensive that other batteries. Other than that, the usual one to get is the Interstate MTP93.
With the 380s you can get a small battery and save some weight and money. I believe you can still get the smaller ones from MB dealers. But, the big battery that is really for the 560/500 will give you much more cranking time in situations like this.
The battery might take a charge once you get it started though, so why replace it prematurely?
EDIT: Oh yeah, I forgot all about BAP Geon, though I find sometimes their prices suck (and sometimes they're great).
#26
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Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
I ordered a Bosch pump.
I also sprayed a hint of starter fluid in the intake and it started right up.
I'm feeling pretty good about it.
I also sprayed a hint of starter fluid in the intake and it started right up.
I'm feeling pretty good about it.
#27
Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
How many miles are on it? It should get a fresh oil and filter (I'd use 15w-50 in the summer), fresh radiator fluid (use MB radiator fluid, trust me, I don't care that there are other ones that claim compatibility, the MB stuff somehow seems to inhibit corrosion better), and fresh DOT4 brake fluid. Probably change the power steering fluid and its filter while you're in there (can use Dexron trans fluid, power steering fluid, or the Febi stuff you can get at MB dealers and some independent MB shops). Depending on the mileage and the service history you might want to do the trans fluid and filter too (Mobil 1 trans fluid does well in these cars).
These were the last Benzes to be built then priced (instead of built to a price point), and they thought of everything (A-pillars are strong enough to act as a roll bar for instance). You've got a good copy there, so treat it nice.
Here's the 1985 S-Class brochure - focuses on the 126 but covers the 107 too.
http://www.davidson.smugmug.com/gall...5_VS6Lb#P-1-15
And here's the 1985 Mercedes lineup overview brochure
http://davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/...54590273_Sc6kq
If you're going to park it outside, get a good sunshade for the windshield - the dashboards do have a way of cracking.
These were the last Benzes to be built then priced (instead of built to a price point), and they thought of everything (A-pillars are strong enough to act as a roll bar for instance). You've got a good copy there, so treat it nice.
Here's the 1985 S-Class brochure - focuses on the 126 but covers the 107 too.
http://www.davidson.smugmug.com/gall...5_VS6Lb#P-1-15
And here's the 1985 Mercedes lineup overview brochure
http://davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/...54590273_Sc6kq
If you're going to park it outside, get a good sunshade for the windshield - the dashboards do have a way of cracking.
Last edited by marlinspike; 08-02-2009 at 09:29 AM.
#28
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Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
The car has 174,XXX miles on it, but it's in phenomenal condition. I have checked all of the fluids and everything is quite clean.
The dashboard already has a small crack, but it's nothing too terrible. I noticed that there are new ones available on eBay. Are they worth looking into?
The dashboard already has a small crack, but it's nothing too terrible. I noticed that there are new ones available on eBay. Are they worth looking into?
#29
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Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
Totally off topic, but I just saw you at Arby's a little bit ago. I didn't realize it was you until you were walking out the door. Long time no see man.
#30
Re: 1984 Benz 380SL won't start...
Uh, you sure those are new dashboards and not just covers? Anyways, it takes about 15 hours to change the dashboards in one of these...and a new dashboard is very $$$$. I'd ignore it. Mine has had one crack for the past 10 years, coming off the corner of a speaker opening about 1.5inches long. It has never spread, it just appeared one day after being in the sun.
As far as the fluids, they may seem clean but brake fluid, radiator fluid, and oil, all go bad with time not just miles (oil should be changed every year if miles are still short of needing a change, MB coolant is good for 3 years, and brake fluid in these cars tends to make it only 1-2 years).
BTW, these cars have flat tappet cams. Most new oils don't work well with flat tappet cams. There are only a few that I'd recommend
The Mobil 1 15w-50 is their flat tappet cam oil
Brad Penn (this is the only affordable one on my list)
Motul 300V
Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oil
Are the only ones I'd use. There may be others but these are the ones that I know. The cams are hardened so it's not as bad as the British flat tappet cam cars, but the new oils will kill these cams quicker than they should. It sucks that you can't just go to a car parts store and buy oil and have it be safe for flat tappets (except for the Mobil 1 15-50), but such is life. (BTW, the reason redline, royal purple, and amsoil etc are not on my list is just that I don't know anything about those. The ones in my list I know are flat tappet safe, and I can't think of anything else sold at a car parts place that is other than the Mobil 1 15-50, specifically that one weight btw, the other Mobil 1s are not ok for flat tappets).
If the transmission was maintained by the book, the fluid was changed every 30k miles, which means its coming time for new trans fluid and filter soon. If it was never changed, it's probably best just to leave it.
As far as the fluids, they may seem clean but brake fluid, radiator fluid, and oil, all go bad with time not just miles (oil should be changed every year if miles are still short of needing a change, MB coolant is good for 3 years, and brake fluid in these cars tends to make it only 1-2 years).
BTW, these cars have flat tappet cams. Most new oils don't work well with flat tappet cams. There are only a few that I'd recommend
The Mobil 1 15w-50 is their flat tappet cam oil
Brad Penn (this is the only affordable one on my list)
Motul 300V
Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oil
Are the only ones I'd use. There may be others but these are the ones that I know. The cams are hardened so it's not as bad as the British flat tappet cam cars, but the new oils will kill these cams quicker than they should. It sucks that you can't just go to a car parts store and buy oil and have it be safe for flat tappets (except for the Mobil 1 15-50), but such is life. (BTW, the reason redline, royal purple, and amsoil etc are not on my list is just that I don't know anything about those. The ones in my list I know are flat tappet safe, and I can't think of anything else sold at a car parts place that is other than the Mobil 1 15-50, specifically that one weight btw, the other Mobil 1s are not ok for flat tappets).
If the transmission was maintained by the book, the fluid was changed every 30k miles, which means its coming time for new trans fluid and filter soon. If it was never changed, it's probably best just to leave it.
Last edited by marlinspike; 08-02-2009 at 10:12 AM.