2004 rx8 hard to start..
08-22-2011, 09:19 PM
#21
Yup, jolly poopbuggy
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
Do you want to just fix it or did you want to prevent problems from happening in the future, too?
If you've got the money to fix/do preventative maintenance do this stuff:
BHR ignition setup - $500 (get new plugs from them, too)
Racing Beat or BHR mid-pipe (non-cat) - $300-400, IIRC
replace starter with upgrade starter - $150 from autozone - $500 from the dealer
If you've got the money to fix/do preventative maintenance do this stuff:
BHR ignition setup - $500 (get new plugs from them, too)
Racing Beat or BHR mid-pipe (non-cat) - $300-400, IIRC
replace starter with upgrade starter - $150 from autozone - $500 from the dealer
08-23-2011, 10:01 AM
#22
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
Half of you people are retarded.
It's an engine just like any other... Fuel and air go in. They get compressed and lit by a spark plug, They go bang, and it runs.
There is no black magic. There is no mystery.
I got an RX-7 for a reliable daily a few years ago to replace a vehicle with a Honda badge on the grille because it was down... Valve cover was leaking oil onto the timing belt and was causing it to stretch and skip teeth. No timing belt or valve covers on the rotary.. Ergo, more reliable.
OP... Firstly, head over to a club where there are people more familiar with these cars. In order of preference:
http://www.rx8club.com
http://www.rotarycarclub.com
http://www.nopistons.com
Secondly, take it to the dealer and have them look at what recalls and factory authorized modifications have been done to the car. Specifically, there have been several ECU reflashes that have come out. Some of those reflashes have to do with regional climate conditions... Being that we've had a recent hot spell and things are now cooling down, that might have something to do with the problem.
I don't personally own an RX-8, so I don't know the specific quirks that the car has, but I have an older version of that engine... I can tell you the following:
1.) It is not tolerant of overheating. Because it is built in several alternating layers of aluminum and iron, it is very sensitive to overheating. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.
2.) It is very sensitive to oil changes. The oil is used to cool the insides of the rotors (just like the undersides of pistons in conventional engines.) There are oil squirters built into the engine (under the intake manifold and on the rotor housings themselves) used to lubricate the apex seals (like piston rings in a conventional engine) It will burn a bit of oil as it runs... In working on older RX-7s, I've seen this be as much as a quart every 1000 miles to as little as a quart every 5000 miles. your mileage may vary. Use a good quality oil and do drive it aggressively to prevent carbon from forming on the spark plug tips and in the engine. The use of synthetics is widely debated in the rotary engine community since synthetics are designed NOT to burn. Most people recommend Castrol GTX.
3.) You mentioned chattering as the engine is revved. This is chattering that you will not hear, but it's something to note... First thing to realize: there's a redline on the tach. It's there for a reason. Take the engine to redline once. You'll hear the car beep at you. Notice that it's a smooth running engine and you might not notice that it was at redline as you drive, hence the beep.
If you stay at or above redline for a long period of time, the apex seals will chatter against the rotor housings. It happens when you rub two metal objects together very fast, kinda like skipping a stone on a lake. This is just like the piston rings in a conventional engine scraping up the cylinder bore. Racing engines that see high rpm all the time use a lighter material like carbon or ceramic for the apex seals so that they don't chatter. The iron seals in your engine are better built for street driving.
Enjoy the rotary, but note that there's a few minor quirks about it. Also know that even though the average joe doesn't know much about the engine, there's a HUGE community that'll help you out.
It's an engine just like any other... Fuel and air go in. They get compressed and lit by a spark plug, They go bang, and it runs.
There is no black magic. There is no mystery.
I got an RX-7 for a reliable daily a few years ago to replace a vehicle with a Honda badge on the grille because it was down... Valve cover was leaking oil onto the timing belt and was causing it to stretch and skip teeth. No timing belt or valve covers on the rotary.. Ergo, more reliable.
OP... Firstly, head over to a club where there are people more familiar with these cars. In order of preference:
http://www.rx8club.com
http://www.rotarycarclub.com
http://www.nopistons.com
Secondly, take it to the dealer and have them look at what recalls and factory authorized modifications have been done to the car. Specifically, there have been several ECU reflashes that have come out. Some of those reflashes have to do with regional climate conditions... Being that we've had a recent hot spell and things are now cooling down, that might have something to do with the problem.
I don't personally own an RX-8, so I don't know the specific quirks that the car has, but I have an older version of that engine... I can tell you the following:
1.) It is not tolerant of overheating. Because it is built in several alternating layers of aluminum and iron, it is very sensitive to overheating. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.
2.) It is very sensitive to oil changes. The oil is used to cool the insides of the rotors (just like the undersides of pistons in conventional engines.) There are oil squirters built into the engine (under the intake manifold and on the rotor housings themselves) used to lubricate the apex seals (like piston rings in a conventional engine) It will burn a bit of oil as it runs... In working on older RX-7s, I've seen this be as much as a quart every 1000 miles to as little as a quart every 5000 miles. your mileage may vary. Use a good quality oil and do drive it aggressively to prevent carbon from forming on the spark plug tips and in the engine. The use of synthetics is widely debated in the rotary engine community since synthetics are designed NOT to burn. Most people recommend Castrol GTX.
3.) You mentioned chattering as the engine is revved. This is chattering that you will not hear, but it's something to note... First thing to realize: there's a redline on the tach. It's there for a reason. Take the engine to redline once. You'll hear the car beep at you. Notice that it's a smooth running engine and you might not notice that it was at redline as you drive, hence the beep.
If you stay at or above redline for a long period of time, the apex seals will chatter against the rotor housings. It happens when you rub two metal objects together very fast, kinda like skipping a stone on a lake. This is just like the piston rings in a conventional engine scraping up the cylinder bore. Racing engines that see high rpm all the time use a lighter material like carbon or ceramic for the apex seals so that they don't chatter. The iron seals in your engine are better built for street driving.
Enjoy the rotary, but note that there's a few minor quirks about it. Also know that even though the average joe doesn't know much about the engine, there's a HUGE community that'll help you out.
08-24-2011, 08:52 AM
#23
Yup, jolly poopbuggy
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So, Pele, you called half the people who replied idiots and then gave NO rx8 specific input other than rx8club.com? You're real helpful yourself.
08-24-2011, 09:13 AM
#24
baller/dickbutt#69
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
It's an engine like any other but of the millions of cars made and sold only one manufacture makes it and installed it in one car....so its the same as the other millions
08-24-2011, 10:26 AM
#25
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
Half of you people are retarded.
It's an engine just like any other... Fuel and air go in. They get compressed and lit by a spark plug, They go bang, and it runs.
There is no black magic. There is no mystery.
I got an RX-7 for a reliable daily a few years ago to replace a vehicle with a Honda badge on the grille because it was down... Valve cover was leaking oil onto the timing belt and was causing it to stretch and skip teeth. No timing belt or valve covers on the rotary.. Ergo, more reliable.
OP... Firstly, head over to a club where there are people more familiar with these cars. In order of preference:
http://www.rx8club.com
http://www.rotarycarclub.com
http://www.nopistons.com
Secondly, take it to the dealer and have them look at what recalls and factory authorized modifications have been done to the car. Specifically, there have been several ECU reflashes that have come out. Some of those reflashes have to do with regional climate conditions... Being that we've had a recent hot spell and things are now cooling down, that might have something to do with the problem.
I don't personally own an RX-8, so I don't know the specific quirks that the car has, but I have an older version of that engine... I can tell you the following:
1.) It is not tolerant of overheating. Because it is built in several alternating layers of aluminum and iron, it is very sensitive to overheating. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.
2.) It is very sensitive to oil changes. The oil is used to cool the insides of the rotors (just like the undersides of pistons in conventional engines.) There are oil squirters built into the engine (under the intake manifold and on the rotor housings themselves) used to lubricate the apex seals (like piston rings in a conventional engine) It will burn a bit of oil as it runs... In working on older RX-7s, I've seen this be as much as a quart every 1000 miles to as little as a quart every 5000 miles. your mileage may vary. Use a good quality oil and do drive it aggressively to prevent carbon from forming on the spark plug tips and in the engine. The use of synthetics is widely debated in the rotary engine community since synthetics are designed NOT to burn. Most people recommend Castrol GTX.
3.) You mentioned chattering as the engine is revved. This is chattering that you will not hear, but it's something to note... First thing to realize: there's a redline on the tach. It's there for a reason. Take the engine to redline once. You'll hear the car beep at you. Notice that it's a smooth running engine and you might not notice that it was at redline as you drive, hence the beep.
If you stay at or above redline for a long period of time, the apex seals will chatter against the rotor housings. It happens when you rub two metal objects together very fast, kinda like skipping a stone on a lake. This is just like the piston rings in a conventional engine scraping up the cylinder bore. Racing engines that see high rpm all the time use a lighter material like carbon or ceramic for the apex seals so that they don't chatter. The iron seals in your engine are better built for street driving.
Enjoy the rotary, but note that there's a few minor quirks about it. Also know that even though the average joe doesn't know much about the engine, there's a HUGE community that'll help you out.
It's an engine just like any other... Fuel and air go in. They get compressed and lit by a spark plug, They go bang, and it runs.
There is no black magic. There is no mystery.
I got an RX-7 for a reliable daily a few years ago to replace a vehicle with a Honda badge on the grille because it was down... Valve cover was leaking oil onto the timing belt and was causing it to stretch and skip teeth. No timing belt or valve covers on the rotary.. Ergo, more reliable.
OP... Firstly, head over to a club where there are people more familiar with these cars. In order of preference:
http://www.rx8club.com
http://www.rotarycarclub.com
http://www.nopistons.com
Secondly, take it to the dealer and have them look at what recalls and factory authorized modifications have been done to the car. Specifically, there have been several ECU reflashes that have come out. Some of those reflashes have to do with regional climate conditions... Being that we've had a recent hot spell and things are now cooling down, that might have something to do with the problem.
I don't personally own an RX-8, so I don't know the specific quirks that the car has, but I have an older version of that engine... I can tell you the following:
1.) It is not tolerant of overheating. Because it is built in several alternating layers of aluminum and iron, it is very sensitive to overheating. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.
2.) It is very sensitive to oil changes. The oil is used to cool the insides of the rotors (just like the undersides of pistons in conventional engines.) There are oil squirters built into the engine (under the intake manifold and on the rotor housings themselves) used to lubricate the apex seals (like piston rings in a conventional engine) It will burn a bit of oil as it runs... In working on older RX-7s, I've seen this be as much as a quart every 1000 miles to as little as a quart every 5000 miles. your mileage may vary. Use a good quality oil and do drive it aggressively to prevent carbon from forming on the spark plug tips and in the engine. The use of synthetics is widely debated in the rotary engine community since synthetics are designed NOT to burn. Most people recommend Castrol GTX.
3.) You mentioned chattering as the engine is revved. This is chattering that you will not hear, but it's something to note... First thing to realize: there's a redline on the tach. It's there for a reason. Take the engine to redline once. You'll hear the car beep at you. Notice that it's a smooth running engine and you might not notice that it was at redline as you drive, hence the beep.
If you stay at or above redline for a long period of time, the apex seals will chatter against the rotor housings. It happens when you rub two metal objects together very fast, kinda like skipping a stone on a lake. This is just like the piston rings in a conventional engine scraping up the cylinder bore. Racing engines that see high rpm all the time use a lighter material like carbon or ceramic for the apex seals so that they don't chatter. The iron seals in your engine are better built for street driving.
Enjoy the rotary, but note that there's a few minor quirks about it. Also know that even though the average joe doesn't know much about the engine, there's a HUGE community that'll help you out.
08-24-2011, 10:52 AM
#26
DESTROYS DONUTS !!
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
Half of you people are retarded.
It's an engine just like any other... Fuel and air go in. They get compressed and lit by a spark plug, They go bang, and it runs.
There is no black magic. There is no mystery.
I got an RX-7 for a reliable daily a few years ago to replace a vehicle with a Honda badge on the grille because it was down... Valve cover was leaking oil onto the timing belt and was causing it to stretch and skip teeth. No timing belt or valve covers on the rotary.. Ergo, more reliable.
OP... Firstly, head over to a club where there are people more familiar with these cars. In order of preference:
http://www.rx8club.com
http://www.rotarycarclub.com
http://www.nopistons.com
Secondly, take it to the dealer and have them look at what recalls and factory authorized modifications have been done to the car. Specifically, there have been several ECU reflashes that have come out. Some of those reflashes have to do with regional climate conditions... Being that we've had a recent hot spell and things are now cooling down, that might have something to do with the problem.
I don't personally own an RX-8, so I don't know the specific quirks that the car has, but I have an older version of that engine... I can tell you the following:
1.) It is not tolerant of overheating. Because it is built in several alternating layers of aluminum and iron, it is very sensitive to overheating. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.
2.) It is very sensitive to oil changes. The oil is used to cool the insides of the rotors (just like the undersides of pistons in conventional engines.) There are oil squirters built into the engine (under the intake manifold and on the rotor housings themselves) used to lubricate the apex seals (like piston rings in a conventional engine) It will burn a bit of oil as it runs... In working on older RX-7s, I've seen this be as much as a quart every 1000 miles to as little as a quart every 5000 miles. your mileage may vary. Use a good quality oil and do drive it aggressively to prevent carbon from forming on the spark plug tips and in the engine. The use of synthetics is widely debated in the rotary engine community since synthetics are designed NOT to burn. Most people recommend Castrol GTX.
3.) You mentioned chattering as the engine is revved. This is chattering that you will not hear, but it's something to note... First thing to realize: there's a redline on the tach. It's there for a reason. Take the engine to redline once. You'll hear the car beep at you. Notice that it's a smooth running engine and you might not notice that it was at redline as you drive, hence the beep.
If you stay at or above redline for a long period of time, the apex seals will chatter against the rotor housings. It happens when you rub two metal objects together very fast, kinda like skipping a stone on a lake. This is just like the piston rings in a conventional engine scraping up the cylinder bore. Racing engines that see high rpm all the time use a lighter material like carbon or ceramic for the apex seals so that they don't chatter. The iron seals in your engine are better built for street driving.
Enjoy the rotary, but note that there's a few minor quirks about it. Also know that even though the average joe doesn't know much about the engine, there's a HUGE community that'll help you out.
It's an engine just like any other... Fuel and air go in. They get compressed and lit by a spark plug, They go bang, and it runs.
There is no black magic. There is no mystery.
I got an RX-7 for a reliable daily a few years ago to replace a vehicle with a Honda badge on the grille because it was down... Valve cover was leaking oil onto the timing belt and was causing it to stretch and skip teeth. No timing belt or valve covers on the rotary.. Ergo, more reliable.
OP... Firstly, head over to a club where there are people more familiar with these cars. In order of preference:
http://www.rx8club.com
http://www.rotarycarclub.com
http://www.nopistons.com
Secondly, take it to the dealer and have them look at what recalls and factory authorized modifications have been done to the car. Specifically, there have been several ECU reflashes that have come out. Some of those reflashes have to do with regional climate conditions... Being that we've had a recent hot spell and things are now cooling down, that might have something to do with the problem.
I don't personally own an RX-8, so I don't know the specific quirks that the car has, but I have an older version of that engine... I can tell you the following:
1.) It is not tolerant of overheating. Because it is built in several alternating layers of aluminum and iron, it is very sensitive to overheating. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.
2.) It is very sensitive to oil changes. The oil is used to cool the insides of the rotors (just like the undersides of pistons in conventional engines.) There are oil squirters built into the engine (under the intake manifold and on the rotor housings themselves) used to lubricate the apex seals (like piston rings in a conventional engine) It will burn a bit of oil as it runs... In working on older RX-7s, I've seen this be as much as a quart every 1000 miles to as little as a quart every 5000 miles. your mileage may vary. Use a good quality oil and do drive it aggressively to prevent carbon from forming on the spark plug tips and in the engine. The use of synthetics is widely debated in the rotary engine community since synthetics are designed NOT to burn. Most people recommend Castrol GTX.
3.) You mentioned chattering as the engine is revved. This is chattering that you will not hear, but it's something to note... First thing to realize: there's a redline on the tach. It's there for a reason. Take the engine to redline once. You'll hear the car beep at you. Notice that it's a smooth running engine and you might not notice that it was at redline as you drive, hence the beep.
If you stay at or above redline for a long period of time, the apex seals will chatter against the rotor housings. It happens when you rub two metal objects together very fast, kinda like skipping a stone on a lake. This is just like the piston rings in a conventional engine scraping up the cylinder bore. Racing engines that see high rpm all the time use a lighter material like carbon or ceramic for the apex seals so that they don't chatter. The iron seals in your engine are better built for street driving.
Enjoy the rotary, but note that there's a few minor quirks about it. Also know that even though the average joe doesn't know much about the engine, there's a HUGE community that'll help you out.
08-24-2011, 11:32 AM
#27
baller/dickbutt#69
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
.is that you? If it is pm me
08-24-2011, 11:45 AM
#28
Why so serious?
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
The description is on point with my 2004. As a former owner, do not expect much performance other than handling from this car.
Look here
http://www.finishlineperformance.com....php?pageid=11
Mainly this one. This has saved many engines to my knowledge.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf
Look here
http://www.finishlineperformance.com....php?pageid=11
Mainly this one. This has saved many engines to my knowledge.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf
Last edited by Its Chey; 08-24-2011 at 11:46 AM. Reason: add info
08-24-2011, 12:19 PM
#29
Forcibly Repped
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
it should be noted for those that don't know, that the 2004 and 2005 automatics trans RX-8's (which is what Chey had) were signifigantly depowered motors as compared to the manual transmission cars
the power was not upped for the autotrans cars till the 6spd autos arrived in 2006
the power was not upped for the autotrans cars till the 6spd autos arrived in 2006
Last edited by Niburu; 08-24-2011 at 12:32 PM.
08-24-2011, 02:13 PM
#30
Why so serious?
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Re: 2004 rx8 hard to start..
it should be noted for those that don't know, that the 2004 and 2005 automatics trans RX-8's (which is what Chey had) were signifigantly depowered motors as compared to the manual transmission cars
the power was not upped for the autotrans cars till the 6spd autos arrived in 2006
the power was not upped for the autotrans cars till the 6spd autos arrived in 2006
It was still a fun car. Once you understand what it takes to care for the engine, its rather simple to keep it performing its personal best. I believe 2008 was the first year for 3 oil metering jets to wet the apex seals. I ran 16oz of TCW-3 oil in each tank of gas. This would to a point improve compression forming a nice wet seal and extending the life of the seals. My cars engine had been replaced at 4600 miles. The flooding issue was still present after the necessary factory upgrades. OP should also check to make sure Mazda "MSP-16" has been performed.
In my opinion, any of the actual goodies from BHR or the like are useless. Unless, you have all of them and are handy with the Cobb AccessPort. I was using PPO2 program to write tunes. Never had any significant gains.
Knowing what I know having owned one, sell it as soon as you can and get something else.