B20b swap issues?
#12
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Re: B20b swap issues?
haha right on I appreciate the help. What are good plugs to use? I put in NGK v-power plugs but I dont think there worth a damn. And should I look into upgrading to ann after market fuel rail aswell while Im fixing these issues?
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Re: B20b swap issues?
in my opinion, aftermarket fuel rails are simply trendy things to do, i mean, they dont allow any more fuel through to the motor than the injectors can give. i would stay with a stock rail unless you have intentions on using a dual injector set-up
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Re: B20b swap issues?
Get slightly larger injectors and go get tuned. I'll say it again in case you missed it: Go get tuned.
And there is no reason for an aftermarket fuel rail. You're barely putting out more power than a stock B16, so you have a long way to go before the stock fuel rail comes close to being a flow restriction.
And there is no reason for an aftermarket fuel rail. You're barely putting out more power than a stock B16, so you have a long way to go before the stock fuel rail comes close to being a flow restriction.
#15
Re: B20b swap issues?
I'll buy it for $1 =)
Chipped P28 is telling us squat. For all we know the map could be for a built D16 running 500CC inj and 15psi+ boost and its why it seems "OK" under heavy throttle.
How is the idle when cold? And warm?
Do you have someone to burn a B20/VTEC map or pop in a chip? That will anwer more questions than just installing larger injectors. A chip will run you less than $35 shipped from zenochron jk tuning or phearable. Stay away from the ebay garbage.
* * * edit * * *
No need to get it tuned. Just a generic B20VTEC map. 90% sure your motor is stock bore and compression and even if not, it will still run "OK" if it is overbored or is high compression.
HECK, come to 22192, I can "tune" it for you for $100
tune = pull your chip, pop in to my burner, download, B20/VTEC map (available to d/l from zenochron's site) h/j extra, tips appreciated
This is an EXC post
Chipped P28 is telling us squat. For all we know the map could be for a built D16 running 500CC inj and 15psi+ boost and its why it seems "OK" under heavy throttle.
How is the idle when cold? And warm?
Do you have someone to burn a B20/VTEC map or pop in a chip? That will anwer more questions than just installing larger injectors. A chip will run you less than $35 shipped from zenochron jk tuning or phearable. Stay away from the ebay garbage.
* * * edit * * *
No need to get it tuned. Just a generic B20VTEC map. 90% sure your motor is stock bore and compression and even if not, it will still run "OK" if it is overbored or is high compression.
HECK, come to 22192, I can "tune" it for you for $100
tune = pull your chip, pop in to my burner, download, B20/VTEC map (available to d/l from zenochron's site) h/j extra, tips appreciated
money. As for the injectors, contrary to popular belief, ALL Honda B and Dseries motors use the same size injectors (240cc). So, it doesn't matter if you use 92 civic dx injectors or 01 jdm integra type-r injectors, or anything in between, they're all the same size (except i think HF or CX injectors, correct me if I'm wrong).
Now, align the intake manifold gasket onto the head. Torque down the intake manifold's 12mm to spec. Install the injectors with their rubber gaskets. Then, install the fuel rail. Stick with stock on this, I've seen more problems with casting flaws in aftermarket fuel rails, than you'd care to deal with. Stock honda fuel rails are good for over 500 HP, so don't worry. Remember, keep things simple. Make sure not to overtighten the 10mm nuts holding the fuel rail on. Injectors - I would suggest AT LEAST 310cc injectors for a build reaching 180 whp or more, although it is proven to not be necessary. You will just need to run the stock injectors at an extremely high and inefficient fuel pressure, which would require you to own an FPR to adjust the fuel pressure. Keep in mind, higher fuel pressures are bad for fuel atomization so it's best to run larger injectors in the 40-50 psi range. The stock injectors below are for visual purposes only.
Now, align the intake manifold gasket onto the head. Torque down the intake manifold's 12mm to spec. Install the injectors with their rubber gaskets. Then, install the fuel rail. Stick with stock on this, I've seen more problems with casting flaws in aftermarket fuel rails, than you'd care to deal with. Stock honda fuel rails are good for over 500 HP, so don't worry. Remember, keep things simple. Make sure not to overtighten the 10mm nuts holding the fuel rail on. Injectors - I would suggest AT LEAST 310cc injectors for a build reaching 180 whp or more, although it is proven to not be necessary. You will just need to run the stock injectors at an extremely high and inefficient fuel pressure, which would require you to own an FPR to adjust the fuel pressure. Keep in mind, higher fuel pressures are bad for fuel atomization so it's best to run larger injectors in the 40-50 psi range. The stock injectors below are for visual purposes only.
Last edited by Laserjock; 09-15-2010 at 01:08 PM.
#16
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Re: B20b swap issues?
I'll buy it for $1 =)
Chipped P28 is telling us squat. For all we know the map could be for a built D16 running 500CC inj and 15psi+ boost and its why it seems "OK" under heavy throttle.
How is the idle when cold? And warm?
Do you have someone to burn a B20/VTEC map or pop in a chip? That will anwer more questions than just installing larger injectors. A chip will run you less than $35 shipped from zenochron jk tuning or phearable. Stay away from the ebay garbage.
* * * edit * * *
No need to get it tuned. Just a generic B20VTEC map. 90% sure your motor is stock bore and compression and even if not, it will still run "OK" if it is overbored or is high compression.
HECK, come to 22192, I can "tune" it for you for $100
tune = pull your chip, pop in to my burner, download, B20/VTEC map (available to d/l from zenochron's site) h/j extra, tips appreciated
This is an EXC post
Chipped P28 is telling us squat. For all we know the map could be for a built D16 running 500CC inj and 15psi+ boost and its why it seems "OK" under heavy throttle.
How is the idle when cold? And warm?
Do you have someone to burn a B20/VTEC map or pop in a chip? That will anwer more questions than just installing larger injectors. A chip will run you less than $35 shipped from zenochron jk tuning or phearable. Stay away from the ebay garbage.
* * * edit * * *
No need to get it tuned. Just a generic B20VTEC map. 90% sure your motor is stock bore and compression and even if not, it will still run "OK" if it is overbored or is high compression.
HECK, come to 22192, I can "tune" it for you for $100
tune = pull your chip, pop in to my burner, download, B20/VTEC map (available to d/l from zenochron's site) h/j extra, tips appreciated
This is an EXC post
#18
Re: B20b swap issues?
seriously now: The OP states
Under heavy acceleration it does just fine for the most part
How about the fuel pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail?
OR
Is it the ECU (map) dictating injector duty cycle or timing?
#19
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Re: B20b swap issues?
its pretty clear that its a fuel issue, and as previously stated the fuel pump should have been changed when the new motor went in. bad injectors are the simplest thing to check, but seeing how they should be aftermarket...next, how often do people really change out the fuel filter? most times the feed line is brittle and will crack with the slightest pressure so people dont bother and cars run fine. the map is a likely source, but iirc OP is trying to source a generic b20v map.