JdmLove

when u buy a clutch it gives you a tq rating. if you make over the oem stage ratings you will just burn it up.
http://www.racinglab.com/exedy-clutch-s1-004.html

has a tq capacity rating of 201.
anything over that youll just wear it down quick.

look into the oem specs and see what your tq rating is, and then estimate how much tq your making on the setup you plan on going with and compare.

if daily driven car i wouldnt recommend a pucked clutch because they chatter on take off.

hope this helped

Snoop 95

What he said.

As for me, I had a Competition Clutch stage 5 sprung four puck clutch in my DC, which was WAY overkill for my torque, but I went that high, because the car was gonna see numerous passes at the drag strip. It chattered like hell on the street, but it grabbed like a sumbitch! So I just learned to live with it. Wasn't really all that bad after I got used to it.

The CC stage 4 sprung six puck is almost night and day, however. I rode in my buddy's EG with one, and drove it too, and it felt nearly stock, with good pedal feel, and far less chatter than the stage 5.

Competition Clutch makes a GOOD product, check 'em out.

planb

will do, thanks again to all the contributors.

redrocket4ya

ive built two boosted integras that all i did was put fresh bearings in. one ran on 9psi with no trouble the other was on 15psi and blew a head gasket after about a year. so its all in wut u wanna do man

jaydm7182

you dont have to mod anything internal what so ever. but what ever you do , make sure it is tuned

i had an sc-61 precision turbo boosting to 13 psi. on an ls engine B18B

i did put titanium valve springs and retainers but i only did that to rev up to 8,000 rpm. i was still making power up to 8k but i would have blown my bottom end if i revved past it

White Devil

You have to handle boost in stages if you want a reliable setup that puts out the best horsepower. At the start of ANY boost project, you need to be positive that your engine can handle the extra stress a boosted system will require, or youll be buying engines in quick order. This means gauging what needs to be replaced in terms of water pump, hoses, radiator, oil pump, ALL BELTS, header bolt torquing, ANYTHING that can weaken or already has weakened due to normal wear and tear. Gaskets all around are a must, and there are several sites out on the web that list the safe steps to improving your engine before and after adding turbos. An engine that you can rely on is always the first step to correct modding.

Here is a good mods guideline to follow:

1: Boost causes heat. Look for ways to cool down your engine bay like aluminum radiators, brand new hoses, aluminum piping, etc. Make sure your oil lines are good and that you are running a good oil pump, as lubrication is essential to a good running turbo.
2: Boost requires airflow. Intercoolers, performance air filters, and larger piping/duct work get more air into the combustion chamber.
3: Boost requires exhaust. Running a boosted system off of a factory exhaust is like force-feeding a horse with a small asshole. Open up your system with the same throughput from the manifold (or wastegate, depending on the turbo) all the way back to the tailpipe, not just from the cat-back. Eliminating 90 deg. bends in your piping can vastly improve your airflow and net you more horsepower.
4: Boost requires good fuel economy. New injectors, fuel lines, spark plugs/wires, fuel pump, CLEAN OCTANE GASOLINE (not cheapo 7/11 shit), fuel filters, etc. will go far to preventing detonation issues.
5: Boost requires good FUEL MANAGEMENT. Air/fuel computers, improved MAF sensors, piggyback ECUs (later on), wideband O2, pod gauges, etc. will help prevent lean conditions and improper firing.

Hope this helps.

Snoop 95

Very informative post.

Efficiency, correct turbo selection & good fuel/engine management/tuning is the name of the game.

planb

+1. that post will be alot of help while i prepare/comes time to turbo

Fabrik8

Forget the part about piggyback ECUs. They're never a good idea.

White Devil

There are some replacement ECU that cost big $$$ as well, but researching that stuff prior to blowing wads of money is always important.