Building boosted gsr BLOCK G OR SLEEVE?
01-20-2009, 03:23 PM
#21
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A block gaurd should only be installed when building a new motor, & the bore honing can be done after the block gaurd is installed.
The Achilles heel of the mega power Honda is the cylinder walls & deck.
The problem is: when taken to the limit, @ high rpm when N/A or when boosted beyond 15PSI, the unsupported walls crack from, side load & combustion pressure induced stress.
The best sleeves imo are the AEBS which solve both sleeve cracking & head gasket sealing issues.
As for cams its really a personal preference, because I've seen high HP boosted Honda's make the power ur seeking with OEM cams.
My advice to you is to find the parts that work best with each other as a whole system.
I usually want what the winners use or what's been tried again & again with consitent results.
You didn't mention anything about headwork, that will give you
some excellent results done right.
Also I would go with a fully programmable engine management system.
To be honest their are so many ways to the HP #'s u desire. Its all in what u know, how u build it & most importantly the TUNE!!!
Me personally I would build the motor as efficently as possible, ex. good flowing head, stout bottom end, good Compression ratio that allows for good throttle response & works well with what ur gonna use the motor for.
What's good for the track isn't always best for the street & daily driving.
As far as the GSR head flowing better than the B16, my understanding is that the GSR head does not flow as good as the B16 head. The B16 head is pretty much the same exact cast as the Type R.
How many people do you know or heard of swapping out a Type R head for a GSR because it flows better?
The B16 & Type R rev higher than the GSR & IMO flow better as OEM equipment.
So that's not to say that the GSR can't be made to flow better.
The Achilles heel of the mega power Honda is the cylinder walls & deck.
The problem is: when taken to the limit, @ high rpm when N/A or when boosted beyond 15PSI, the unsupported walls crack from, side load & combustion pressure induced stress.
The best sleeves imo are the AEBS which solve both sleeve cracking & head gasket sealing issues.
As for cams its really a personal preference, because I've seen high HP boosted Honda's make the power ur seeking with OEM cams.
My advice to you is to find the parts that work best with each other as a whole system.
I usually want what the winners use or what's been tried again & again with consitent results.
You didn't mention anything about headwork, that will give you
some excellent results done right.
Also I would go with a fully programmable engine management system.
To be honest their are so many ways to the HP #'s u desire. Its all in what u know, how u build it & most importantly the TUNE!!!
Me personally I would build the motor as efficently as possible, ex. good flowing head, stout bottom end, good Compression ratio that allows for good throttle response & works well with what ur gonna use the motor for.
What's good for the track isn't always best for the street & daily driving.
As far as the GSR head flowing better than the B16, my understanding is that the GSR head does not flow as good as the B16 head. The B16 head is pretty much the same exact cast as the Type R.
How many people do you know or heard of swapping out a Type R head for a GSR because it flows better?
The B16 & Type R rev higher than the GSR & IMO flow better as OEM equipment.
So that's not to say that the GSR can't be made to flow better.
01-20-2009, 03:41 PM
#22
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Re: Building boosted gsr BLOCK G OR SLEEVE?
To4e,60 trim compressor trim/ turbine housing A/R
T350,76 trim 0.60 housing
exhaust housing T3: 0.82
strong boost Onset rpm 4500-6000
The boost should kick in 1k to 1.5 earlier than I listed but that's when all hell breaks loose & a big fat surge of power will be felt.
that should be good for Approx 400-500 hp.
T350,76 trim 0.60 housing
exhaust housing T3: 0.82
strong boost Onset rpm 4500-6000
The boost should kick in 1k to 1.5 earlier than I listed but that's when all hell breaks loose & a big fat surge of power will be felt.
that should be good for Approx 400-500 hp.
01-21-2009, 12:09 PM
#23
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Re: Building boosted gsr BLOCK G OR SLEEVE?
Did you really just say that? Do you really believe that?
As far as I know, the tensile strength of the Golden Eagle and the ARP are virtually identical. They are also made from different materials (8740 ARP, 4340 Golden Eagle), and have different heat treating processes (obviously because of the different materials). I'm not saying one is better than the other, just that you can't tell strength by looking at two fasteners of the same size.
So how are you going to blindly say that one is stronger than the other because it's slightly bigger?
As far as I know, the tensile strength of the Golden Eagle and the ARP are virtually identical. They are also made from different materials (8740 ARP, 4340 Golden Eagle), and have different heat treating processes (obviously because of the different materials). I'm not saying one is better than the other, just that you can't tell strength by looking at two fasteners of the same size.
So how are you going to blindly say that one is stronger than the other because it's slightly bigger?
I am not saying that one is stronger just because it is larger without considering the other factors...
ARP - 190,000 PSI Tensile strength
9.48mm stud diameter (at this point I am interested in the unthreaded portion only)
8740 Steel
Golden Eagle - 190,000-200,000 PSI Tensile stength (sources differ between 190k and 200k)
10.24mm stud diameter
4340 Steel
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just as a reference, only to illustrate the differences between the two materials...
8740 Steel Properties
http://asm.matweb.com/search/Specifi...bassnum=M874AO
4340 Steel Properties
http://asm.matweb.com/search/Specifi...bassnum=M434AE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Basically, given an ARP stud and a Golden Eagle stud are put under the same load.. The ARP stud will assume more stress(psi) than the Golden Eagle stud because of the smaller area. If both fastners are of the same tensile strength as advertised, the ARP bolt will fail first because of the smaller area.
01-21-2009, 06:27 PM
#24
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Re: Building boosted gsr BLOCK G OR SLEEVE?
That actually is what you said. But I agree with your explanation. Given the material properties or advertised strength, you can make a proper judgment based on things other than just size.
Last edited by Fabrik8; 01-21-2009 at 06:34 PM.
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