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check engine light still

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Old 08-31-2010, 10:37 PM
  #11  
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Default Re: check engine light still

man yeah i'm calling it a night. can't argue with stupid now can't we. lol pz douche bag
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:12 AM
  #12  
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Default Re: check engine light still

Originally Posted by boredom
read sig, then visit honda-tech.com and find the appropriate section for your car. good luck
Pretty much sums this site up... H-T or T-I is your best bet, they actually have car enthusiasts with technical knowledge. If it weren't for that one house music guy, this site would be comprised entirely of 15-22 year old dudes talking shit/sucking each other off/begging for rep.

Maybe try the MD forum? In almost all cases, VA>MD... but not necessarily the case when it comes to our "car" site
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:39 AM
  #13  
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Default Re: check engine light still

Originally Posted by 96teg jdm dunk
so i did the revisited bypass of the fluctuation sensor which involved splicing and depinning two wires out of ecu and no difference . same code so im going with that maybe its the dizzy thats bad and or connection issue . is it possible for the car to run half way decent in limp mode if its throwing a crank sensor code ? also while scanning for codes another one popped up it was for the knock sensor . i looked and some how it came unplugged . that seemed to make it run a lil better . jus cant wait for this thing to crack vtec ! well if yall have any ideas or info i appreciate it thanks
Grab a multimeter and do a continuity check between the distributor connector and the ECU connector. You might have a wiring problem, and it's always better to quickly check the wiring and eliminate that as a possible problem instead of replacing the distributor and then finding out you have a wiring problem instead. It may be a bad distributor, but distributors cost money so it's better to check the things that are free (like the wiring) first. The crank angle sensor isn't a powered sensor (it's a variable reluctance sensor, or VR sensor), and there are only two wires to the ECU if I remember correctly. Also check to see if any of the crimp pins have somehow backed out of the connector housings when the harnesses have been unplugged and plugged back in.

It didn't sound like the crank fluctuation sensor was part of the problem at all, but you most likely would have needed to bypass it sooner or later anyway depending on what ECU you were using.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:53 PM
  #14  
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Exclamation thanks for the info fabrik8 !

checked all the connections with a multi meter and its lookin like i needs a dizzy ! and wow those things are expensive brand new . any places i can get one rebuilt or used that any one would suggest ?
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:32 PM
  #15  
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Default Re: thanks for the info fabrik8 !

Originally Posted by 96teg jdm dunk
checked all the connections with a multi meter and its lookin like i needs a dizzy ! and wow those things are expensive brand new . any places i can get one rebuilt or used that any one would suggest ?
Quote for later

Why did this need a new thread?
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:35 PM
  #16  
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Default Re: thanks for the info fabrik8 !

Fabrik8 rules, and will 99.9% of the time provide you with exactly what you need to know.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:09 PM
  #17  
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Default Re: thanks for the info fabrik8 !

cool story, bro
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:13 AM
  #18  
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Default Re: check engine light still

I merged the two threads, just in case anyone is confused....
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Old 09-03-2010, 06:47 AM
  #19  
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Default Re: thanks for the info fabrik8 !

Originally Posted by 96teg jdm dunk
checked all the connections with a multi meter and its lookin like i needs a dizzy ! and wow those things are expensive brand new . any places i can get one rebuilt or used that any one would suggest ?
bap geon......they wanted 223 and 199 if your military.. advance wants 438....FAWK tht
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