marlinspike

LOL...no, I did that. Not fine. It will get me to the trans rebuilder, but not much more. I should explain - I had pieces of clutch in my pan the size of corn flakes.

Fabrik8

I was joking..

Laserjock

mmmm, that's grrRREATt!!!

sorry coming in to help with electrical question

marlinspike

I will say the shifter no longer gets hung up when trying to put it in R from N, probably because there isn't a bunch of clutch in the pan to get in the way of the linkage.

Fabrik8

LOL. Yikes..

marlinspike

Fabrik8, on a daily driver 5.6 liter V8 with a 2.47 rear end, do you think it's worth an extra $350 and downtime to have the stall speed raised from 1850rpm to 2200rpm, or will a 2200rpm stall speed drive me nuts on a daily (it can be raised more, but I feel like I wouldn't want to go any higher on a daily) without providing much gain?

Fabrik8

What's the torque peak on that engine? I wouldn't think that raising the stall only 350RPM is going to be annoying, but I don't know if you'll get much gain from it either. 2200 still isn't very high, so as long as the torque peak is still above the stall speed I don't see any reason to not do it (except the money).


I really hate torque converters. There are so many variables that it's really hard to know what you're getting unless you have a very similar setup to what they've rated the specs for. Gearing, weight, and torque all affect the stall specs, so unless you're swapping one converter for another that uses the same rating specs then it's a little tricky. Or you buy one specifically spec'd for your car (which you might be doing...?).

marlinspike

They would actually have to send out my current converter and modify it. Peak torque is around 4000rpm, but 2500rpm (when the dyno first stops being fooled by the torque converter) is only ~15lb-ft less than the max torque.