Fabrik8

Please take note of the "anything else". You're only testing power/ground cables, etc., and neglecting the rest of the starting system. Using the headlights as a troubleshooting tool can only tell you a limited amount of things about the starting system, because you're only testing the components that affect the headlights and the starting system. I'm standing by my previous statement that it's only but so useful.

Pele

How do you know?

I'm trying to gather as much info from the OP as possible. Unfortunately, with his "wall of text" writing style and lack of mechanical skill, it makes diagnosing a car I've never seen in person over kinda difficult. If you've got any more insight into this problem through the posts in this thread, I'd like to know...

I am also testing the starter for current draw. Have you ever attempted to start a seized (hydrolocked, seized bearing, foreign object in cylinder, broken rod, etc.) engine? Have you ever attempted to start a car with a starter that had an open or shorted section on the starter? These conditions will also be reflected in the headlight test.

When troubleshooting ANYTHING, you first make sure connections are tight.

Dough_Boy.

I know because I see this problem about 3-4 times daily monday through friday.

Pele

^ Dodge dealership mechanic, I take it?

So you're used to dealing with diagnosing problems in a comfy shop while the car's on a lift and you've got your huge Snap-On toolbox sitting there beside you... Complete with Service manual library and various diagnostic scanners.

I'm used to dealing with problems in the middle of a parking lot... Out in the middle of nowhere... Sunk in a foot of mud or snow... With shitty Harbor Freight tools in the trunk cause all my good stuff is back at home.


If it's a bad starter or an open in the circuit that triggers the solenoid, then you'd see it in the headlights because they would not dim when he hit the key.

euthorus

Check your Crank Shaft Position sensor, flooding the car on the start will usually buy you a few more starts when that sensor goes bad but it will get progressively worse until it wont start at all, clicking as if you have a dead battery.

Is your charger a 2.7, 3.5 or a 5.7 ?