cv axle break.
11-10-2010, 09:12 PM
#11
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Re: cv axle break.
Alright. Ive lifted more vehicles than Ive lowered, but its my understanding that youre supposed to check out your suspension completely BEFORE modifying it, like bushings, ball joints, UCAs/LCAs, struts, coils, shocks and shock bushings wear/damage, drag link/pitman arm/tie rod, axleshafts, tread wear, etc.... (this is for multiple types of cars/trucks BTW)
This is also, of course, IF the cars suspension was modified either by the OP or a previous owner, which is the only reason I can think of for such catastrophic failure. What year is your car and when was it lowered?
This is also, of course, IF the cars suspension was modified either by the OP or a previous owner, which is the only reason I can think of for such catastrophic failure. What year is your car and when was it lowered?
11-10-2010, 09:18 PM
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Re: cv axle break.
From what I've seen with other's mistakes, it pays off more to make sure the nut is torqued than to make sure you have a cotter pin.
That's all I'm saying.
Plus I'd almost guarantee if it came down to it, that pin would fail on a car that's been lowered/has modified suspension, due to the increased pressure/load those components see.
run of the mill civic + ebay coilovers + blown struts = every single bounce could be your last LOLOLZ
That's all I'm saying.
Plus I'd almost guarantee if it came down to it, that pin would fail on a car that's been lowered/has modified suspension, due to the increased pressure/load those components see.
run of the mill civic + ebay coilovers + blown struts = every single bounce could be your last LOLOLZ
I lol'd on that last bit
11-11-2010, 04:58 PM
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Re: cv axle break.
I would think that the ball joint coming apart caused the axle to break, instead of the other way around. The ball joint was probably loosening up for a while, and finally dropped out when you shifted and the loads on the suspension changed during the shift. That would have loaded the axle the wrong way, obviously causing the axle to break at a joint (joints only like loads in certain directions, because they're usually only loaded in those directions).
From what I've seen with other's mistakes, it pays off more to make sure the nut is torqued than to make sure you have a cotter pin.
That's all I'm saying.
Plus I'd almost guarantee if it came down to it, that pin would fail on a car that's been lowered/has modified suspension, due to the increased pressure/load those components see.
run of the mill civic + ebay coilovers + blown struts = every single bounce could be your last LOLOLZ
That's all I'm saying.
Plus I'd almost guarantee if it came down to it, that pin would fail on a car that's been lowered/has modified suspension, due to the increased pressure/load those components see.
run of the mill civic + ebay coilovers + blown struts = every single bounce could be your last LOLOLZ
anyway yeah come to my house whenever if you want to take a look ha.. its on jackstands right now
11-11-2010, 05:05 PM
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Re: cv axle break.
Alright. Ive lifted more vehicles than Ive lowered, but its my understanding that youre supposed to check out your suspension completely BEFORE modifying it, like bushings, ball joints, UCAs/LCAs, struts, coils, shocks and shock bushings wear/damage, drag link/pitman arm/tie rod, axleshafts, tread wear, etc.... (this is for multiple types of cars/trucks BTW)
This is also, of course, IF the cars suspension was modified either by the OP or a previous owner, which is the only reason I can think of for such catastrophic failure. What year is your car and when was it lowered?
This is also, of course, IF the cars suspension was modified either by the OP or a previous owner, which is the only reason I can think of for such catastrophic failure. What year is your car and when was it lowered?
The car is a 1995. It had stock struts, so I replaced all four struts with brand new ones and put tein springs on them. It was probably only a 2 - 2.25 inch drop at most. This was almost 10 months ago. I've done routine checks on all the major parts on my car including suspension, never saw anything out of the ordinary.
11-12-2010, 04:21 AM
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Re: cv axle break.
I would think that the ball joint coming apart caused the axle to break, instead of the other way around. The ball joint was probably loosening up for a while, and finally dropped out when you shifted and the loads on the suspension changed during the shift. That would have loaded the axle the wrong way, obviously causing the axle to break at a joint (joints only like loads in certain directions, because they're usually only loaded in those directions).
I was also betting that OP used the old cotter pins. Those tiny things get bent back ONE time and they will more then likely snap. True?
EDIT: OP- check the strut towner, strut rod, etc. These may be bent as well.
Last edited by FObangah; 11-12-2010 at 04:31 AM.
11-12-2010, 07:08 AM
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Re: cv axle break.
Exactly what I was thinking as I read it. Cotter pin goes MIA, nut works it's way off over time, ball joint lifts out while driving, suspension/hub assembly/etc. gets driven back in to wheel well, snapping axle at the CV joint (the transmission finishes off the guts/boot due to the fact it's still in gear yet the wheel isn't spinning), OP's car has asphalt/dirt lunch while waiting for tow truck.
I was also betting that OP used the old cotter pins. Those tiny things get bent back ONE time and they will more then likely snap. True?
EDIT: OP- check the strut towner, strut rod, etc. These may be bent as well.
I was also betting that OP used the old cotter pins. Those tiny things get bent back ONE time and they will more then likely snap. True?
EDIT: OP- check the strut towner, strut rod, etc. These may be bent as well.
However i did use brand new cotter pins. After all the work of the swap, I wouldn't skimp on such a little part and use old ones, that would be just plain ignorant.
Strut and all the upper suspension looked intact. Even the lower ctrl arm seemed fine, minus a few scratches on the bottom. I'll probably just need a new axle, ball joint, and tie rod.
Last edited by sleeperteg; 11-12-2010 at 07:11 AM.
11-12-2010, 09:48 AM
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Re: cv axle break.
Thanks for your input, and you too Fabrik8, after thinking it all sounds very probable, the axle was snapped at the joint. I just have no idea how the cotter pin came out.
However i did use brand new cotter pins. After all the work of the swap, I wouldn't skimp on such a little part and use old ones, that would be just plain ignorant.
Strut and all the upper suspension looked intact. Even the lower ctrl arm seemed fine, minus a few scratches on the bottom. I'll probably just need a new axle, ball joint, and tie rod.
However i did use brand new cotter pins. After all the work of the swap, I wouldn't skimp on such a little part and use old ones, that would be just plain ignorant.
Strut and all the upper suspension looked intact. Even the lower ctrl arm seemed fine, minus a few scratches on the bottom. I'll probably just need a new axle, ball joint, and tie rod.
