p2r

Hello VaDriven,

I've been have an intermittent starting problem with my DC. At first it would do it randomly a few times a week, and I assumed it was the starter going bad. So I put a 1/2" drive x 24" extension in the car for my wife to hit the starter as needed, along with a set of beastly jumper cables. This seemed to be a good band-aid for the time. I replaced the starter with 3 different starters, ending with a DENSO reman. Problem seemed to go away for a day or two.

THEN IT GOT WORSE !
The car appeared to have a drained/dead/dying battery when you tried cranking it - It just gave 1 small "click" - that was it, if anything. So I replaced the battery. Now the ECT gauge on the factory cluster is reading erratically - it will read from where it should to HOT randomly, and quickly. I figured it was a ground issue, so I replaced and added ground straps along with cleaning/sanding the contact points/faces where the starter meets the transmission. ((( ECT Gauge Video Below )))

Worked for a day or two again, and then back to the same shit. A few nights later, I noticed the headlights dimming down. I put on the hi-beams, and the cluster dimmed. I then turned off the stereo, heater, hi-beams, and rear defrost | the headlights got brighter. The ECT gauge was also acting up (going to HOT) as the lights were dimming. So needless to say, I replaced the Alternator.

AHH HA !! Finally! Its Fixed!

.
.
.

Right?! WRONG !!

Approximately 7-10 days after the New Alternator was installed the ECT gauge started getting a little hotter than usual, but nothing crazy. I assumed it was the warmer days, or the thermostat was sticking. Just to be safe, I replaced the thermostat. The gauge kept registering a little off (from time to time).

Then this morning my wife goes to start the car, and what do you know - "Click"

Its doing it AGAIN !! !!

Any Suggestions?!?!

I'm thinking it might be the main relay at this point. I need to find my spare one and swap it out.

lmk your thoughts

straightHYPE

if it was the main relay it would crank but no start bad battery? bad terminal? or something inside is staying on

Fabrik8

Probably a bad connection somewhere else, like the power or ground connection to the main fuse box under the hood. Stuff like the headlights aren't on the main power relay, so they can't be affected by a main power relay problem.

If it's still just going "click" then you are in the perfect position to find out what it is. If you have a fresh battery, then you're good to go. Grab a multimeter and start finding out where you have battery voltage and where you don't, and I guarantee you'll find the problem if you can properly interpret what you're looking at. If the headlights are dim, there is a voltage drop somewhere. Find it and you'll find the problem. It really helps to have a load that you know is affected, because even bad connections can look perfectly normal if there is no current going through them. Once you apply a load, current flows and you get a voltage drop across whatever is causing the resistance to the current flow.

p2r

I've check it out with the multimeter, but possibly not thorough enough. I've also tried jumping the starter with my power probe, and I was getting the same reaction. I have not done that in the past week though.

Regarding the headlights dimming. That was when the alternator took a shit, so that makes sense as to why they were dimming. They don't/haven't dimmed down since the new alternator was installed.

-But that being said, the ECT gauge does increase (goes to hot) with the loss of power, and also regulates depending on the load (SOMETIMES/most of the time).

I plan on dropping a new main relay in there, and my Brand Spankin New engine harness (harness will be swapped with the new engine) and seeing where that gets me.

I honestly think its a series of small issues.

o.so.slow

sell it...

p2r

Hell No.

This is a minor issue that can and will be cleared up.



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Why, you want to buy a teg?!

p2r

I changed and Inspected the Main Relay.

Everything looks ok inside the relay, nothing looks/smells burnt, no cracks in the soldier joints, etc.


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I am now looking for a new main fuse box (under the dash), so see if that clears it up. I can hear clicking around the fuse box, even with the main relay removed. If I put my hand on the fuse box when I try to turn it on, I can feel the faint click through the fuse box itself. (and I've obviously checked all my fuses).

Thanks!

p2r

I took this video today as I was driving.. I apologize in advance for the LACK of Quality, but you will get the general idea of how the gauge "jumps around" from time to time.

The Gauge is Reading NORMAL at the Beginning of the video (Just for Reference). And there are times where the needle is PEGGED Past The "H", and then just drops right back down to normal operating temp (back and forth - back and forth).

b18b

Pull the plug off the ECT sensor, using a DMM set to volts, turn ign to ON position measure voltage...Probe(-) on chassis ground and Other(+) on Red pin of connector. Get 5Volts? Now move Probe(-) to Green pin of the connector. 5Volts as well? Now measure the resistance of the sensor when the engine is cold it should be 5k roughly? Report back with your findings.

madsteez

Sounds like something is staying on. Could be anything rear defrost,power to the ac compressor,power to the fuel pump etc etc.

Id start by checking out things which are controlled but cant be seen by the eye. Such as the rear defrost or ac compressor.