Fabrik8

There is a white bar code sticker on the side of the ECU. The ECU code is part of the numbers on that. So if you have a P28 ECU for example, then "P28" will be part of one of the numbers on the bar code sticker.

OBD2 ECUs can't be chipped, and don't internally look like the above picture, therefore you have an OBD1 ECU.

ebach007

there are no numbers on the outside of my ECU...i even unbolted it to check the back.

Fabrik8

Great, someone removed the ID sticker. Is there a sticker on top of the main connector on the inside?

Well, there are ways to identify the ECU based on the circuit board. It's not nearly as straightforward though. Maybe the guy can who is going to tune it can identify what it is.

ebach007

checking the timing when I get off work tomorrow afternoon, I'll check for the code inside the ECU then...

If everything is in time, any ideas on what it could be?

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When you look at your ECU compare it to mine that is pictured. The highlighted areas on the board are where sertain components get soldered in to convert a non vtec ecu to a VTEC P28.

Also to ID the original type of ECU I highlighted the sticker as Fabrik8 mentioned earlier, as you can see my ECU is originally a P06-A02 non-vtec manual ecu. Also if you want to know the model of board you have I highlighted that as well in the top right.

OBDII can be chipped however it is considerably more expensive than chipping OBDI and requires the ability to do surface soldering which is more intricate.

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All they did in that photo was socket the board for a removable chip. That ship doesn't even appear to be rewritable either. They didnt even solder in a data header in the rectangle section at the bottom left. So your ECU has no datalogging capability.

Fabrik8

Sweet, that saved me from trying to find a picture like that somewhere.

That "Skunk2" chip is a ceramic package, so it's probably a UV-erasable EPROM with a quartz window under that sticker. A sticker is used so that the EPROM doesn't take the chance of getting erased with normal UV light exposure. You can take the sticker off and look underneath if you're curious, it won't hurt anything. They can be erased and reprogrammed if you have a UV EPROM eraser (kinda like a specialized blacklight) and a standard chip programmer that is able to do multi-voltage EPROM programming (EPROMs require a 12V and 5V voltage, flash chips only need a single 5V supply for programming). Don't worry about any of that stuff though; whoever tunes your ECU will take care of all the chip programming and that kind of stuff (and will use a flash chip instead of that ceramic EPROM that you already have).




While we're still roughly on topic, the P06, P28, and P30 are all internally identical, and they all use that same circuit board. The P06 is missing the VTEC components, the P28 has the VTEC components, and the P30 has an external knock sensor board (connected with a flat-flex cable) that the P06 and P28 are missing. The stock programs are different obviously because the ECUs are meant to run different engines, but chipping changes that.
Based on those differences, you can identify which ECU you have. If you have something other than that exact same ID number on the circuit board, you most likely have something related to the P72 family which is slightly different.

ebach007

ok kool. I will pop the cover off again tomorrow and look for those numbers/components.

My timing belt is in good condition and still tight, so im really thinking it did not jump timing. Also going to check my map sensor and vacuum lines tomorrow afternoon when I get off work. If all thats good, then idk what to think. I dont want to pay the $$$ to have a shop diagnose it for me, but if I have to I will. This is my DD, so I really need her running soon...

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Nice explanation Fabrik8.

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btw if you want to chip your ECU further for datalogging or anything let me know.