??? nitrous ???
#11
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Re: ??? nitrous ???
I googled up b20 building for nos
found this thread:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=43376787
not sure if it helps I tried reading ended up scanning and dropping my beer so didnt look long.
found this thread:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=43376787
not sure if it helps I tried reading ended up scanning and dropping my beer so didnt look long.
#12
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Re: ??? nitrous ???
For instance, a 400+ Cubic Inch motor, using ancient technology, is strong enough in the bottom end generally to handle 125+ easily. Many of them, with nothing more than an average street build (forged rods, forged pistons, mild portwork and cams) will handle a 300+ fogger system reliably.
In more modern engines, those prone to detonation due to bad chamber designs, valves being too small, etc., are not exceptionally good for use with Nitrous.
How much Nitrous you need, depends on your goal. If you want a 250 hp 2.0, then a VTEC setup, good cams, a good build, proper tuning, and a 50 shot is more than enough. If you want 600 hp on a 2.0 using Nitrous, then you'll need a bit more obviously (like, a turbocharger!)
If you put this in a 2000 lb rolling tube-frame chassis, then engine loading doesn't really much matter. Drop it into a 3800 lb car, add traction, and the load on the engine actually increases, and detonation is much more prone, and suddenly, the build has to be different.
What fuel are you planning to use?
What E.T. would you like to achieve?
What type of car will this be in? (FWD, RWD, AWD, Front Transverse Mounting, Front Longitudinal Mounting, Rear Engine, Mid-Engine, Tube-Frame w/Body, Uni-Body, Back-Half?)
If you don't know that, then you can't properly build a setup to match to the car. And nobody here can give you any kind of serious advice as to a good route to go.
By the way, is that a B20 Honda (which one?), a B20 Mazda, or a B20 Volvo?
Or maybe I'm mis-reading, and this is a B20 Biodiesel compatible engine?
#15
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Re: ??? nitrous ???
The point is, IT DOES MATTER!
For instance, a 400+ Cubic Inch motor, using ancient technology, is strong enough in the bottom end generally to handle 125+ easily. Many of them, with nothing more than an average street build (forged rods, forged pistons, mild portwork and cams) will handle a 300+ fogger system reliably.
In more modern engines, those prone to detonation due to bad chamber designs, valves being too small, etc., are not exceptionally good for use with Nitrous.
How much Nitrous you need, depends on your goal. If you want a 250 hp 2.0, then a VTEC setup, good cams, a good build, proper tuning, and a 50 shot is more than enough. If you want 600 hp on a 2.0 using Nitrous, then you'll need a bit more obviously (like, a turbocharger!)
If you put this in a 2000 lb rolling tube-frame chassis, then engine loading doesn't really much matter. Drop it into a 3800 lb car, add traction, and the load on the engine actually increases, and detonation is much more prone, and suddenly, the build has to be different.
What fuel are you planning to use?
What E.T. would you like to achieve?
What type of car will this be in? (FWD, RWD, AWD, Front Transverse Mounting, Front Longitudinal Mounting, Rear Engine, Mid-Engine, Tube-Frame w/Body, Uni-Body, Back-Half?)
If you don't know that, then you can't properly build a setup to match to the car. And nobody here can give you any kind of serious advice as to a good route to go.
By the way, is that a B20 Honda (which one?), a B20 Mazda, or a B20 Volvo?
Or maybe I'm mis-reading, and this is a B20 Biodiesel compatible engine?
For instance, a 400+ Cubic Inch motor, using ancient technology, is strong enough in the bottom end generally to handle 125+ easily. Many of them, with nothing more than an average street build (forged rods, forged pistons, mild portwork and cams) will handle a 300+ fogger system reliably.
In more modern engines, those prone to detonation due to bad chamber designs, valves being too small, etc., are not exceptionally good for use with Nitrous.
How much Nitrous you need, depends on your goal. If you want a 250 hp 2.0, then a VTEC setup, good cams, a good build, proper tuning, and a 50 shot is more than enough. If you want 600 hp on a 2.0 using Nitrous, then you'll need a bit more obviously (like, a turbocharger!)
If you put this in a 2000 lb rolling tube-frame chassis, then engine loading doesn't really much matter. Drop it into a 3800 lb car, add traction, and the load on the engine actually increases, and detonation is much more prone, and suddenly, the build has to be different.
What fuel are you planning to use?
What E.T. would you like to achieve?
What type of car will this be in? (FWD, RWD, AWD, Front Transverse Mounting, Front Longitudinal Mounting, Rear Engine, Mid-Engine, Tube-Frame w/Body, Uni-Body, Back-Half?)
If you don't know that, then you can't properly build a setup to match to the car. And nobody here can give you any kind of serious advice as to a good route to go.
By the way, is that a B20 Honda (which one?), a B20 Mazda, or a B20 Volvo?
Or maybe I'm mis-reading, and this is a B20 Biodiesel compatible engine?
#16
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Re: ??? nitrous ???
I googled up b20 building for nos
found this thread:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=43376787
not sure if it helps I tried reading ended up scanning and dropping my beer so didnt look long.
found this thread:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=43376787
not sure if it helps I tried reading ended up scanning and dropping my beer so didnt look long.
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#20
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Re: ??? nitrous ???
If you're doing this with an LS/B20 head, pump gas, and stock cams, I'd say you probably want stock, or close to stock compression.
If you're doing this with a VTEC head setup, and 300+ Duration cams, and race fuel (C22, i.e.) then you could probably run 15:1 pistons....
If you're doing this on a serious budget, you're screwed.
Might as well pick up a motor for $500-700, and a 75 wet shot, and have fun trying to keep up with B20/VTEC's that are built right.
If you're doing this with a VTEC head setup, and 300+ Duration cams, and race fuel (C22, i.e.) then you could probably run 15:1 pistons....
If you're doing this on a serious budget, you're screwed.
Might as well pick up a motor for $500-700, and a 75 wet shot, and have fun trying to keep up with B20/VTEC's that are built right.