quick question about some oils
12-08-2008, 02:30 PM
#11
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Re: quick question about some oils
Porsche seems to think Mobil-1 is pretty decent. I know there's a whole sub-culture of oil enthusiasts out there who like all kinds of different concoctions, but I let the professional chemists do their job. It usually always comes back to the point of diminishing returns. Are very small incremental gains in oil performance (that the average person doesn't have any way to measure or quantify) worth the problems finding X type of oil, or shelling out the money for? I know everyone needs a hobby, but obsessing about oil isn't one of mine.
I like to look at how the readily available brands stack up against each other, but that's about as far as it goes.
By the way, if you need a thicker oil so you burn less of it, you need a rebuild. If you just got a rebuild, and you're still burning oil, you probably need a different type of cylinder hone finish.
I like to look at how the readily available brands stack up against each other, but that's about as far as it goes.
By the way, if you need a thicker oil so you burn less of it, you need a rebuild. If you just got a rebuild, and you're still burning oil, you probably need a different type of cylinder hone finish.
Last edited by Fabrik8; 12-08-2008 at 02:36 PM.
12-08-2008, 03:27 PM
#12
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Re: quick question about some oils
The tests I've seen -
In the same weight - (10w30)
Amsoil is probably the best base stock. They don't use as many additives as some others. It doesn't really burn off easy though. This indicates the base stock is actually thicker, but still flows thin.
Royal Purple, Red Line are not far behind in burn point. However, they both contain large quantities of zinc, which is a kick-ass pressure barrier. It's why Royal Purple claims it will "micro-polish" the crank, rather than score it. Neither has super high quantities of cleaners.
After that, Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil-1, and most other major brand synthetics. They still have a VERY high burn point compared with a standard oil. (About 150 degrees higher, which is significant, in that AMSOIL being one of the best burns at less than 500...) These have modern formulations for SAE specs. They have high detergent contents, low zinc levels, and are very good oils as well. You can add the shelf Royal Purple (non-race-version) to this group, except the burn point is higher.
By comparison, GTX being one of the best dino oils (Rotella and Valvoline being the other high end oils) the dino oils have burn points around 275-325 degrees. They physically cannot have as much additive of any sort, due to the impurities found in them naturally. They are also much thinner at the same weight, they cannot use the same levels of thermal expansion agents, which means they wear out faster.
It's that "sheer" problem, that causes turbo cars to prefer synthetic. The tight clearances and high heat levels inside the turbo cause the oil to sheer from the expanders much more quickly.
IF you run a regular oil in a turbo car, it's highly recommended you change it VERY often!
Basically, in every possible way, Synthetic oils are better, discounting price.....
Hope that sheds some light on it for some of you.
In the same weight - (10w30)
Amsoil is probably the best base stock. They don't use as many additives as some others. It doesn't really burn off easy though. This indicates the base stock is actually thicker, but still flows thin.
Royal Purple, Red Line are not far behind in burn point. However, they both contain large quantities of zinc, which is a kick-ass pressure barrier. It's why Royal Purple claims it will "micro-polish" the crank, rather than score it. Neither has super high quantities of cleaners.
After that, Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil-1, and most other major brand synthetics. They still have a VERY high burn point compared with a standard oil. (About 150 degrees higher, which is significant, in that AMSOIL being one of the best burns at less than 500...) These have modern formulations for SAE specs. They have high detergent contents, low zinc levels, and are very good oils as well. You can add the shelf Royal Purple (non-race-version) to this group, except the burn point is higher.
By comparison, GTX being one of the best dino oils (Rotella and Valvoline being the other high end oils) the dino oils have burn points around 275-325 degrees. They physically cannot have as much additive of any sort, due to the impurities found in them naturally. They are also much thinner at the same weight, they cannot use the same levels of thermal expansion agents, which means they wear out faster.
It's that "sheer" problem, that causes turbo cars to prefer synthetic. The tight clearances and high heat levels inside the turbo cause the oil to sheer from the expanders much more quickly.
IF you run a regular oil in a turbo car, it's highly recommended you change it VERY often!
Basically, in every possible way, Synthetic oils are better, discounting price.....
Hope that sheds some light on it for some of you.
12-08-2008, 03:55 PM
#13
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12-09-2008, 06:18 AM
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Re: quick question about some oils
The tests I've seen -
In the same weight - (10w30)
Amsoil is probably the best base stock. They don't use as many additives as some others. It doesn't really burn off easy though. This indicates the base stock is actually thicker, but still flows thin.
Royal Purple, Red Line are not far behind in burn point. However, they both contain large quantities of zinc, which is a kick-ass pressure barrier. It's why Royal Purple claims it will "micro-polish" the crank, rather than score it. Neither has super high quantities of cleaners.
After that, Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil-1, and most other major brand synthetics. They still have a VERY high burn point compared with a standard oil. (About 150 degrees higher, which is significant, in that AMSOIL being one of the best burns at less than 500...) These have modern formulations for SAE specs. They have high detergent contents, low zinc levels, and are very good oils as well. You can add the shelf Royal Purple (non-race-version) to this group, except the burn point is higher.
By comparison, GTX being one of the best dino oils (Rotella and Valvoline being the other high end oils) the dino oils have burn points around 275-325 degrees. They physically cannot have as much additive of any sort, due to the impurities found in them naturally. They are also much thinner at the same weight, they cannot use the same levels of thermal expansion agents, which means they wear out faster.
It's that "sheer" problem, that causes turbo cars to prefer synthetic. The tight clearances and high heat levels inside the turbo cause the oil to sheer from the expanders much more quickly.
IF you run a regular oil in a turbo car, it's highly recommended you change it VERY often!
Basically, in every possible way, Synthetic oils are better, discounting price.....
Hope that sheds some light on it for some of you.
In the same weight - (10w30)
Amsoil is probably the best base stock. They don't use as many additives as some others. It doesn't really burn off easy though. This indicates the base stock is actually thicker, but still flows thin.
Royal Purple, Red Line are not far behind in burn point. However, they both contain large quantities of zinc, which is a kick-ass pressure barrier. It's why Royal Purple claims it will "micro-polish" the crank, rather than score it. Neither has super high quantities of cleaners.
After that, Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil-1, and most other major brand synthetics. They still have a VERY high burn point compared with a standard oil. (About 150 degrees higher, which is significant, in that AMSOIL being one of the best burns at less than 500...) These have modern formulations for SAE specs. They have high detergent contents, low zinc levels, and are very good oils as well. You can add the shelf Royal Purple (non-race-version) to this group, except the burn point is higher.
By comparison, GTX being one of the best dino oils (Rotella and Valvoline being the other high end oils) the dino oils have burn points around 275-325 degrees. They physically cannot have as much additive of any sort, due to the impurities found in them naturally. They are also much thinner at the same weight, they cannot use the same levels of thermal expansion agents, which means they wear out faster.
It's that "sheer" problem, that causes turbo cars to prefer synthetic. The tight clearances and high heat levels inside the turbo cause the oil to sheer from the expanders much more quickly.
IF you run a regular oil in a turbo car, it's highly recommended you change it VERY often!
Basically, in every possible way, Synthetic oils are better, discounting price.....
Hope that sheds some light on it for some of you.
12-11-2008, 05:06 PM
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Re: quick question about some oils
true . alot of dieseil engines are TURBO there for useing thicker oil which is harder to burn off . so your theory is correct . i use 15w 40 in my truck casue of high miles 240k plus miles .
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