JETSWU87

I know the single cams have a lot of valve clearance compared to some of the other honda motors.

Honestly i'd put a new belt on it, rotate it by hand a few times and if nothing hangs up just go for it. you could compression test it also.

Cyanide Jello

Casey came over earlier and checked everything over and gave me the ok after we hand turned the engine... Like I told Casey, the only clickin I heard was from my 72 tooth Snapon ratchet...

Cyanide Jello

Finally got everything back together last night and shes still not running right... I babied her down to advance auto and hooked the scanner up...

po107 - Map/Baro - Low input
po113 - IAT Sensor 1 - High input
po325 - Knock sensor malfuction
po135 - o2 sensor 1 bank sensor 1
p1337 - ignition system misfire
po141 - o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2

I'm not running o2 sensors so we can cross those off... But I don't understand the other codes... Help?

Cyanide Jello

Decided to quit whoring up dude's thread... Ooops...

So I changed out the plugs to a NGK bkr7e and tried the gap at 32 and at 25 and w/ no cigar... I swapped out the new fuel pump to the old one w/ no cigar... I'm still having an issue breaking up when I hit boost and popping when I'm at idle... I think maybe I should adjust the valves since I did break the timing belt... but... I'm lost... Fuckin shitbox...

.Sarge.

I have a 2bar map sensor you can use.

GaRn

Following you from the other thread, forgive me if I missed it in this one, but what ratio is your FMU? Also, do you have a missing link installed?

Have you decreased timing at the distributor cap by a couple of degrees?

GaRn

Is it running bad all the time now, or just in boost?

-Map sensor, may have been damaged by boost pressure and is now reading a lower voltage than expected, MAY need to be replaced, or it just freaked out when under boost.
-IAT sensor (intake air temp), high voltage input, sensor could need to be replaced or cleaned
-knock sensor, don't know if it was triggered or if something is wrong
-ignition misfire, could be ignition system troubles (coil/wires/plug/cap) or detonation

Any of the wiring look rigged or messed with heading to any of those sensors or anywhere noticeable?

I say clear the codes and ride around not hitting boost to see if any of the codes come back. My best guess would be you don't have a missing link on the throttle body, so when the MAP sensor reads boost shit just freaks out, and the rest are the result. That and you probably need to lower timing at the distributor.

Cyanide Jello

Its cool... Bare w/ me please b/c I'm new to performance building and Hondas in general... I got the car pretty much like it sits... I got the body straight and have been fixing shit since I got it...

I haven't adjusted the timing on the dist....

Missing link?

The boosting issue has been fixed that I know of... It was a weak power connection to the ecu... The wiring harness has been tampered w/ hard so I've been continuously fixing wires as I go...

I still have a sparatic (sp?) popping at idle which randomly clears up and comes back while under normal driving...

On the MAP sensor there is what looks like a diaphram under the sensor... The sensor is raised up off the manifold by whatever it is... It doesn't look OEM due to its new and aftermarket condition...

I also have a DR. Pepper can between my manifold and IAC... I've talked to a few people and they say its legit for boosted cars to block off the IAC...

Cyanide Jello

So after driving the car from Vinton to Tanglewood and back to get my son, the popping is almost next to null... But it does still pop randomly... I'm thinkin fuel... The car sat for a month and a half... I know turbo cars are picky bout fuel...

GaRn

Sounds like you are doing pretty good to me really.

That (probably silver or blue) chunk of aluminum between the throttle body and the MAP is the missing link, so thats good that you have it, it just keeps the MAP from sensing positive pressure. Blocking off the IAC should be fine, I did that on my prelude with no ill effects.

Do you have a timing light? I would check timing and set it 2 or 3 deg below factory (15?) for 7 psi. Is the popping like a gurgle type of pop, that you hear sometimes on some cars on decel? That could be normal depending on the type of exhaust you have

That's awesome that you've just about got it running well!