strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
03-02-2010, 02:59 AM
#31
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
Ha I think its funny that we both have a 92 white eg w/ tein SS's and I'm having the same exact problem with mine cracking. (Not that the teins have anything to do with it)
Mine was like, stupid low (couldn't fit a low profile jack under the front) when I first put the teins on, and I never had one problem with the upper control arms (A arms) hitting. Then after raising it to the highest its been with the new coilovers, its started cracking when I put the aftermarket camberkit on. I've seen people cut this small section out, and weld in small tubs/boxes, as b-well suggested.
Mine was like, stupid low (couldn't fit a low profile jack under the front) when I first put the teins on, and I never had one problem with the upper control arms (A arms) hitting. Then after raising it to the highest its been with the new coilovers, its started cracking when I put the aftermarket camberkit on. I've seen people cut this small section out, and weld in small tubs/boxes, as b-well suggested.
Last edited by eg6_bryan; 03-02-2010 at 03:06 AM.
03-02-2010, 03:08 AM
#32
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
At least im not the only one then lol, i talked to tein usa on the phone the other day. Could possibly be the stiffness setting is too soft IF its at its stiffest then the spring rate is so soft & can be upgraded to a 9kg rate although the coilovers will have to be set back to tein for revalving. $120 for the 9kg springs so i was quoted.
03-02-2010, 04:49 AM
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
It's simply that you're running out of supension travel.Is that pic with the steelies how low you are now that you're having problems?That's really low!And you want to go lower?!
To fix the issue,you've got to either:
-Gain more travel.Are you using adjustable upper arms?If so,they usually are taller than stock.Removing them will free up some travel.With no correction,you'll probably be at about 3 degrees of camber at that height,which won't eat up tires(just make sure toe is correct),plus MAd camber will help with dope rimx fitment.Your other option for gaining travel is to box the shock towers.
-Raise the car to a more sensible ride height.If you just simply try to stiffen the springs/shock at the current height,you're still going to blow through the maybe 1/4" of travel you have.You'll still hit the shock tower,the car will ride like shit.You might as well remove the springs alltogether,or install Ebay coilovers on blown stock shocks instead of ruining the Teins(they've got to be close to bottoming internally).If you're going to go bouncing around,bottomed out,looking like the hood kids,why ruin a trendy coilover setup?
-Limit travel.You could use bumpstops to limit the shock travel to right before the upper arms hit the towers,but that'd probably mean you'll be sitting on the stops at static height-See above recommendation on removing springs.
Chris
To fix the issue,you've got to either:
-Gain more travel.Are you using adjustable upper arms?If so,they usually are taller than stock.Removing them will free up some travel.With no correction,you'll probably be at about 3 degrees of camber at that height,which won't eat up tires(just make sure toe is correct),plus MAd camber will help with dope rimx fitment.Your other option for gaining travel is to box the shock towers.
-Raise the car to a more sensible ride height.If you just simply try to stiffen the springs/shock at the current height,you're still going to blow through the maybe 1/4" of travel you have.You'll still hit the shock tower,the car will ride like shit.You might as well remove the springs alltogether,or install Ebay coilovers on blown stock shocks instead of ruining the Teins(they've got to be close to bottoming internally).If you're going to go bouncing around,bottomed out,looking like the hood kids,why ruin a trendy coilover setup?
-Limit travel.You could use bumpstops to limit the shock travel to right before the upper arms hit the towers,but that'd probably mean you'll be sitting on the stops at static height-See above recommendation on removing springs.
Chris
03-02-2010, 05:30 AM
#34
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
It's simply that you're running out of supension travel.Is that pic with the steelies how low you are now that you're having problems?That's really low!And you want to go lower?!
To fix the issue,you've got to either:
-Gain more travel.Are you using adjustable upper arms?If so,they usually are taller than stock.Removing them will free up some travel.With no correction,you'll probably be at about 3 degrees of camber at that height,which won't eat up tires(just make sure toe is correct),plus MAd camber will help with dope rimx fitment.Your other option for gaining travel is to box the shock towers.
-Raise the car to a more sensible ride height.If you just simply try to stiffen the springs/shock at the current height,you're still going to blow through the maybe 1/4" of travel you have.You'll still hit the shock tower,the car will ride like shit.You might as well remove the springs alltogether,or install Ebay coilovers on blown stock shocks instead of ruining the Teins(they've got to be close to bottoming internally).If you're going to go bouncing around,bottomed out,looking like the hood kids,why ruin a trendy coilover setup?
-Limit travel.You could use bumpstops to limit the shock travel to right before the upper arms hit the towers,but that'd probably mean you'll be sitting on the stops at static height-See above recommendation on removing springs.
Chris
To fix the issue,you've got to either:
-Gain more travel.Are you using adjustable upper arms?If so,they usually are taller than stock.Removing them will free up some travel.With no correction,you'll probably be at about 3 degrees of camber at that height,which won't eat up tires(just make sure toe is correct),plus MAd camber will help with dope rimx fitment.Your other option for gaining travel is to box the shock towers.
-Raise the car to a more sensible ride height.If you just simply try to stiffen the springs/shock at the current height,you're still going to blow through the maybe 1/4" of travel you have.You'll still hit the shock tower,the car will ride like shit.You might as well remove the springs alltogether,or install Ebay coilovers on blown stock shocks instead of ruining the Teins(they've got to be close to bottoming internally).If you're going to go bouncing around,bottomed out,looking like the hood kids,why ruin a trendy coilover setup?
-Limit travel.You could use bumpstops to limit the shock travel to right before the upper arms hit the towers,but that'd probably mean you'll be sitting on the stops at static height-See above recommendation on removing springs.
Chris
This man is exactly correct... however you will probably be closer to -4 degrees camber if you are that low. Camber wear isnt bad unless you take long trips where the tires heat up and get soft. Even with toe set to 0 all around you will still increased wear on the inner corner of the tires, its just the nature of the beast with a slammed uncorrected honda. Just rotate often and when it gets down to bars on the inner side have a shop move the inner side of your tires to the outter side so you arent buying tires every 5 months. And dont give me shit about reversing the tread hurting performance. If you cared about performance any you wouldnt be that low.
The problem you have is that you do not have bumpstops on the TIENs. I ran eBay coils with bumpstops on stock UCAs and NEVER had a problem bottoming out. I used to have Hypercoil springs and Skunk2 adjustible UCA that put two nice dents on the shock tower from where they were a different shape than stock so it wouldnt fit the shock tower design.
Here is the height that I used to be at before changing to a more winter friendly setup.
Alignment readout showed -3.8 all around.
03-02-2010, 05:51 AM
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
x2
Bumpstops and no problems on skunk2's
Bumpstops and no problems on skunk2's
03-02-2010, 07:27 AM
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
It's simply that you're running out of supension travel.Is that pic with the steelies how low you are now that you're having problems?That's really low!And you want to go lower?!
To fix the issue,you've got to either:
-Gain more travel.Are you using adjustable upper arms?If so,they usually are taller than stock.Removing them will free up some travel.With no correction,you'll probably be at about 3 degrees of camber at that height,which won't eat up tires(just make sure toe is correct),plus MAd camber will help with dope rimx fitment.Your other option for gaining travel is to box the shock towers.
-Raise the car to a more sensible ride height.If you just simply try to stiffen the springs/shock at the current height,you're still going to blow through the maybe 1/4" of travel you have.You'll still hit the shock tower,the car will ride like shit.You might as well remove the springs alltogether,or install Ebay coilovers on blown stock shocks instead of ruining the Teins(they've got to be close to bottoming internally).If you're going to go bouncing around,bottomed out,looking like the hood kids,why ruin a trendy coilover setup?
-Limit travel.You could use bumpstops to limit the shock travel to right before the upper arms hit the towers,but that'd probably mean you'll be sitting on the stops at static height-See above recommendation on removing springs.
Chris
To fix the issue,you've got to either:
-Gain more travel.Are you using adjustable upper arms?If so,they usually are taller than stock.Removing them will free up some travel.With no correction,you'll probably be at about 3 degrees of camber at that height,which won't eat up tires(just make sure toe is correct),plus MAd camber will help with dope rimx fitment.Your other option for gaining travel is to box the shock towers.
-Raise the car to a more sensible ride height.If you just simply try to stiffen the springs/shock at the current height,you're still going to blow through the maybe 1/4" of travel you have.You'll still hit the shock tower,the car will ride like shit.You might as well remove the springs alltogether,or install Ebay coilovers on blown stock shocks instead of ruining the Teins(they've got to be close to bottoming internally).If you're going to go bouncing around,bottomed out,looking like the hood kids,why ruin a trendy coilover setup?
-Limit travel.You could use bumpstops to limit the shock travel to right before the upper arms hit the towers,but that'd probably mean you'll be sitting on the stops at static height-See above recommendation on removing springs.
Chris
And i didnt pay for the teins the guy i bought the car did & for the price i paid for the car trust me its not hurting my feelings to much to pick up another set.Um Not to burst your bubble... but TIENs are soft. rides great doesnt it? but then it bottoms out over decent sized bumps...
^^^
This man is exactly correct... however you will probably be closer to -4 degrees camber if you are that low. Camber wear isnt bad unless you take long trips where the tires heat up and get soft. Even with toe set to 0 all around you will still increased wear on the inner corner of the tires, its just the nature of the beast with a slammed uncorrected honda. Just rotate often and when it gets down to bars on the inner side have a shop move the inner side of your tires to the outter side so you arent buying tires every 5 months. And dont give me shit about reversing the tread hurting performance. If you cared about performance any you wouldnt be that low.
The problem you have is that you do not have bumpstops on the TIENs. I ran eBay coils with bumpstops on stock UCAs and NEVER had a problem bottoming out. I used to have Hypercoil springs and Skunk2 adjustible UCA that put two nice dents on the shock tower from where they were a different shape than stock so it wouldnt fit the shock tower design.
Here is the height that I used to be at before changing to a more winter friendly setup.
Alignment readout showed -3.8 all around.
^^^
This man is exactly correct... however you will probably be closer to -4 degrees camber if you are that low. Camber wear isnt bad unless you take long trips where the tires heat up and get soft. Even with toe set to 0 all around you will still increased wear on the inner corner of the tires, its just the nature of the beast with a slammed uncorrected honda. Just rotate often and when it gets down to bars on the inner side have a shop move the inner side of your tires to the outter side so you arent buying tires every 5 months. And dont give me shit about reversing the tread hurting performance. If you cared about performance any you wouldnt be that low.
The problem you have is that you do not have bumpstops on the TIENs. I ran eBay coils with bumpstops on stock UCAs and NEVER had a problem bottoming out. I used to have Hypercoil springs and Skunk2 adjustible UCA that put two nice dents on the shock tower from where they were a different shape than stock so it wouldnt fit the shock tower design.
Here is the height that I used to be at before changing to a more winter friendly setup.
Alignment readout showed -3.8 all around.
03-02-2010, 07:49 AM
#37
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
Hmm, I find it weird that your running stock UCA's, my point was, the guy I got em from had em a guy on this site (ludachrisvt) had them all the way low when I put em on w/ stock uca's, and it neverrrr bottomed out, soft or stiff. & when I say low, I had to lift up on the radiator support to put a low profile jack under it :/ (no its not like that anymore lol)
Although they aren't crazy roadrace coilovers like 16k/12k on hondas, the point with superstreets is to have the best of both worlds of soft/stiff, hint... super STREET. I know the tein basic are soft, but y'all make it seem the ss's are stock cadillac springs or somethin lol
I've ran small 13" steelies also, and never had this problem still. I only ran into this problem when I put on my aftermarket camberkit uca's. Your positive your uca's are stock?? Lol That's so weird...
Although they aren't crazy roadrace coilovers like 16k/12k on hondas, the point with superstreets is to have the best of both worlds of soft/stiff, hint... super STREET. I know the tein basic are soft, but y'all make it seem the ss's are stock cadillac springs or somethin lol
I've ran small 13" steelies also, and never had this problem still. I only ran into this problem when I put on my aftermarket camberkit uca's. Your positive your uca's are stock?? Lol That's so weird...
Last edited by eg6_bryan; 03-02-2010 at 08:13 AM.
03-02-2010, 08:13 AM
#38
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
Yep they are stock lol. I've ran Omni camber kits on all my cars except this one (just haven't gotten around to it yet) & never ran into an issue like this. Well i was certain the 13s had something to do with it but not im not so sure if you say you never had a problem.
03-02-2010, 08:21 AM
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
Yeah, I'm not sayin your full of shit or whatever lol I don't think the higher spring rates will fix your problem tho, and I truley don't think the coilovers have anything to do with it.
Btw, what did tein say the spring rates were front/rear?
Btw, what did tein say the spring rates were front/rear?
03-02-2010, 10:29 AM
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Re: strut tower cracking on 92 EG 4door
Ok so i dont wtf i looked at but there is def an aftermarket camber kit in the front. (cause of the problem)
FOUND.
tein said the fronts were typically 2kg but depends on the part number on the spring.
FOUND.
tein said the fronts were typically 2kg but depends on the part number on the spring.