turbo ls vtec
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thank you! i didnt think there would be anything wrong with just a simple question...some advice ya know? someone who might have done it before and would maybe know.cus i dont want to do it and then it not be worth it because i have to buy a headgasket every month.it was just a simple question that i was wondering and turboing the ls vtec wont happen any time soon with me...i was just asking a simple question for later knowledge...thanks to all for your help!
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Originally Posted by j4k3
and ls vtec isnt great for boost due to some sort of ratio of the stroke or something like that. enigma has a long speech about it in another post.
To answer the first question. Blown headgaskets is usually due to installer error or too much boost on the stock headgasket. If you really wanted to boost an ls/vtec and not go crazy with it. Don't boost over 10psi and you won't blow your ring lands or your headgasket. But be mindfull if you boost spike then just hope your motor can take it. If you are that worried about blowing the motor up then get some forged internals and a cometic headgasket and some arp head bolts and you'll be good.
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Originally Posted by sohcrxturbo
how much u plan on boosting psi wise?
i say go ls turbo
save your money from purchasing a vtec head to buy internals/fuel/tune
and upgrade your turbo kit
either go Ls/Vtec NA or LS Turbo
i say go ls turbo
save your money from purchasing a vtec head to buy internals/fuel/tune
and upgrade your turbo kit
either go Ls/Vtec NA or LS Turbo
how ever in reference to LS Turbo.... my friend Blake "Vertigo on that site" was running 20 psi on his 91 teg. had forged internals, stock head, stock block, boost controller from an old starion, inter-cooler was cut down from a diesel truck, RFL blow off, T3/04 hybrid and a couple other goodies... The only problem I have ever see him have was when he was running some crappy OBX turbo manifold and the boost kept cracking the manifold... Then when he lowered his car, he started to break drive shafts. If memory serves me correct he was pulling a nice even 300 at the front wheels. From personal experience from driving the car. It's damn fast but torque steer from 3000 rpms to 7000 rpms was a bitch fighting to keep the car straight as the wheels squeal and smoke a bit.... lol...
Also in ref to the stroke of the ls vtec your absolutely correct. It has one of the worst rod to stroke ratios of all the Honda motors... but as long as you don't rev past 85000 rpms there shouldn't be any issues w/ that...
On a side note, since then Blake wised up and traded off the hondas. Currently he has a pair of Z32's one n/a and one boosted.... Can't wait to go visit so i can hammer on both.... lol...
~skottie b...
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Originally Posted by DWLSRx8
Also in ref to the stroke of the ls vtec your absolutely correct. It has one of the worst rod to stroke ratios of all the Honda motors... but as long as you don't rev past 85000 rpms there shouldn't be any issues w/ that...
~skottie b...
~skottie b...
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Originally Posted by ZeroMR
How are people like you still giving advice? That rod/stroke ratio has nothing to do with boosting.
To answer the first question. Blown headgaskets is usually due to installer error or too much boost on the stock headgasket. If you really wanted to boost an ls/vtec and not go crazy with it. Don't boost over 10psi and you won't blow your ring lands or your headgasket. But be mindfull if you boost spike then just hope your motor can take it. If you are that worried about blowing the motor up then get some forged internals and a cometic headgasket and some arp head bolts and you'll be good.
To answer the first question. Blown headgaskets is usually due to installer error or too much boost on the stock headgasket. If you really wanted to boost an ls/vtec and not go crazy with it. Don't boost over 10psi and you won't blow your ring lands or your headgasket. But be mindfull if you boost spike then just hope your motor can take it. If you are that worried about blowing the motor up then get some forged internals and a cometic headgasket and some arp head bolts and you'll be good.
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Originally Posted by ZeroMR
Worst rod/stroke ratio isn't the right way to put it. It's not that is the worst, it's the longest rod/stroke. Which is the main reason why you would want to go ls/vtec. With forced internal you can go up to 8500 with the occasional 9k. On a stock LS bottom end 7k, with arp rod bolts 8k. But that's not every day either, keep that in mind.
Originally Posted by MerF
You're from Tampa as well? I remember when TR was a tiny little site....lol.
On the other note, I'm not from Tampa, I lived around the R.VA area for 9 years or so before I went down there for 5 years... Use to live in Clearwater and Largo during that time... Did allot of stupid shit down there when it came to driving luckily i was only caught driving on a suspended a few times when driving drunk people home from Ybor... Or that one time when I was paced at 120 on the Howard Franklin... All I can say in ref. to that is thank god we had the F.O.P. stickers on the car. Other wise I woulda been doing the black macareena.... lol... "or how ever you spell that shit...
~skottie b...
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Originally Posted by DWLSRx8
... Then when he lowered his car, he started to break drive shafts. If memory serves me correct he was pulling a nice even 300 at the front wheels. From personal experience from driving the car. It's damn fast but torque steer from 3000 rpms to 7000 rpms was a bitch fighting to keep the car straight as the wheels squeal and smoke a bit.... lol...
how the fuck do you break a driveshaft (adding to the fact you made it plural..as if there are multiple driveshafts on any car) in a FWD honda?
can anyone explain that to me? please dont tell me im the only one that caught that.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWLSRx8
... Then when he lowered his car, he started to break drive shafts. If memory serves me correct he was pulling a nice even 300 at the front wheels. From personal experience from driving the car. It's damn fast but torque steer from 3000 rpms to 7000 rpms was a bitch fighting to keep the car straight as the wheels squeal and smoke a bit.... lol...
how the fuck do you break a driveshaft (adding to the fact you made it plural..as if there are multiple driveshafts on any car) in a FWD honda?
can anyone explain that to me? please dont tell me im the only one that caught that.
Originally Posted by DWLSRx8
... Then when he lowered his car, he started to break drive shafts. If memory serves me correct he was pulling a nice even 300 at the front wheels. From personal experience from driving the car. It's damn fast but torque steer from 3000 rpms to 7000 rpms was a bitch fighting to keep the car straight as the wheels squeal and smoke a bit.... lol...
how the fuck do you break a driveshaft (adding to the fact you made it plural..as if there are multiple driveshafts on any car) in a FWD honda?
can anyone explain that to me? please dont tell me im the only one that caught that.
he prolly ment the drive axle. he got caried away when he was typin 2 fast but glad 2 see all the help 4 this kid. he is a good guy just tryin to figure his way w/o spending a fortune on broken pats.