Work truck messing up..
#23
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EDIT
OP: does your truck have a crank angle sensor? Or cam position sensor? If so check prices in these. If either are "cheap" I would just replace them anyway. Only going to become a problem.
#25
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Forgive me if I'm wrong but couldn't the IACV being "gunked up" also cause this problem? Either way, take some throttle body cleaner and clean the IACV and throttle body just to be sure. If the problem persists I would turn to the fuel system next.
EDIT
OP: does your truck have a crank angle sensor? Or cam position sensor? If so check prices in these. If either are "cheap" I would just replace them anyway. Only going to become a problem.
EDIT
OP: does your truck have a crank angle sensor? Or cam position sensor? If so check prices in these. If either are "cheap" I would just replace them anyway. Only going to become a problem.
#26
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Its idling rough and really LOW if anything...to the point that it shuts off. It has idles rough for months and would occasionally kick or miss under acceleration. I am also low on power and have a huge exhaust manifold leak.
It just rolled 100k yesterday and I cant believe all the problems I am having. I dont care about leaks or noises as it is work truck I just need it to run.
I have gone over the options in my head several times...
1. Buy a newer 2003 to 2007 model truck for 10k. Pros...Its new, everything works, A/C, Blinkers dont bounce out every 500miles and have to be adjusted. Cons....It cost 10k and I dont know what the motor has been through.
2. Overhaul this one for 3 to 5k and save money but still be left with an old truck body and the problems that are going to to start happening with a 16 year old truck.....rear floor cracking and suspension issues.
It just rolled 100k yesterday and I cant believe all the problems I am having. I dont care about leaks or noises as it is work truck I just need it to run.
I have gone over the options in my head several times...
1. Buy a newer 2003 to 2007 model truck for 10k. Pros...Its new, everything works, A/C, Blinkers dont bounce out every 500miles and have to be adjusted. Cons....It cost 10k and I dont know what the motor has been through.
2. Overhaul this one for 3 to 5k and save money but still be left with an old truck body and the problems that are going to to start happening with a 16 year old truck.....rear floor cracking and suspension issues.
#27
![Default](https://www.vadriven.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Its idling rough and really LOW if anything...to the point that it shuts off. It has idles rough for months and would occasionally kick or miss under acceleration. I am also low on power and have a huge exhaust manifold leak.
It just rolled 100k yesterday and I cant believe all the problems I am having. I dont care about leaks or noises as it is work truck I just need it to run.
I have gone over the options in my head several times...
1. Buy a newer 2003 to 2007 model truck for 10k. Pros...Its new, everything works, A/C, Blinkers dont bounce out every 500miles and have to be adjusted. Cons....It cost 10k and I dont know what the motor has been through.
2. Overhaul this one for 3 to 5k and save money but still be left with an old truck body and the problems that are going to to start happening with a 16 year old truck.....rear floor cracking and suspension issues.
It just rolled 100k yesterday and I cant believe all the problems I am having. I dont care about leaks or noises as it is work truck I just need it to run.
I have gone over the options in my head several times...
1. Buy a newer 2003 to 2007 model truck for 10k. Pros...Its new, everything works, A/C, Blinkers dont bounce out every 500miles and have to be adjusted. Cons....It cost 10k and I dont know what the motor has been through.
2. Overhaul this one for 3 to 5k and save money but still be left with an old truck body and the problems that are going to to start happening with a 16 year old truck.....rear floor cracking and suspension issues.
#28
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#29
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