wrx doesnt start sometimes
#11
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#12
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Ok guys i got the subaru dealership to fax me the maintenance that was done, they said they replaced only "what needed to replaced/ was in bad condition". So they did oil change/filter, transmission fluid, and front rotors. The starting issue hasn't happened since last week but i can just feel that its going to happen again. Where should i start ? spark plugs, and fuel pump? Any advice ? What other maintenance should i do ? The car has has 60xxx
#13
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hey guys what are the consequences of not "gapping" the spark plugs? It seems that I forgot to get the tool. Already took the current spark plugs off, am ready to install new. Also my torque wrench is to biig to fit in the small gap I am given to tighten the spark plug, what are the consequences of not using a torque wrench to tighten the plugs? Anyone ignored gappy and using a torque wrench before? Someone please help asap, im sitting here with no ride to advanced auto lol I figured i'd put them on now ungapped and uncorrectly torqued to go get the correct tools but i'd like to know what im dealing with. Thank you
#14
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Yep, tool clearance is a real pain in the ass on that engine. The spark plug torque is pretty low, so you're safe doing it by hand if you use common sense. I use a little stubby ratchet handle for that because it handicaps the amount of torque you can put on the plugs. With a hole that diameter, you have to put a pretty decent amount of torque to damage the threads, which is nearly impossible with a short ratchet and limited space. Yes, I've seen people strip plug holes in many different engines but it's much easier to do with a big wrench and lots of room to be a gorilla. Use some anti-sieze on the plug threads, you'll thank yourself later.
I usually check the gap when I get the plugs, and it's usually pretty damn close if you're getting the OEM replacement plugs from NGK or whoever makes them.
I usually check the gap when I get the plugs, and it's usually pretty damn close if you're getting the OEM replacement plugs from NGK or whoever makes them.
#15
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Yep, tool clearance is a real pain in the ass on that engine. The spark plug torque is pretty low, so you're safe doing it by hand if you use common sense. I use a little stubby ratchet handle for that because it handicaps the amount of torque you can put on the plugs. With a hole that diameter, you have to put a pretty decent amount of torque to damage the threads, which is nearly impossible with a short ratchet and limited space. Yes, I've seen people strip plug holes in many different engines but it's much easier to do with a big wrench and lots of room to be a gorilla. Use some anti-sieze on the plug threads, you'll thank yourself later.
I usually check the gap when I get the plugs, and it's usually pretty damn close if you're getting the OEM replacement plugs from NGK or whoever makes them.
I usually check the gap when I get the plugs, and it's usually pretty damn close if you're getting the OEM replacement plugs from NGK or whoever makes them.
#16
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It should, yeah. Regardless, it's going to be close enough that you can feel confident putting them in without any problems until you can verify that the gap is correct. It's like anything else; don't beat on the engine unless you're confident that the engine is in proper condition to be beat on.
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It should, yeah. Regardless, it's going to be close enough that you can feel confident putting them in without any problems until you can verify that the gap is correct. It's like anything else; don't beat on the engine unless you're confident that the engine is in proper condition to be beat on.
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cant remember the brand i purchased but installed them, started good. Runs GREAT and better then before, except at idle i feel like the engine is twitching and idle dropped to like 200 a few times. check engine light was blinking, you think i shuold pull them out and properly gap them ?